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A plywood storage trunk on a lifted base, wrapped in mitered base moulding and topped with planked boards. Toy box, blanket chest, or entry storage.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L | Material | ✓ |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom panel | 1 | 1/4" × 20 1/4" × 36" | 1/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Base runners | 3 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 20 1/4" | 2x2 | ☐ |
| Box ends | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 18 3/4" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Box front/back | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 36" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Base moulding, long sides Both ends mitered 45°, short point to short point. | 4 | 1/2" × 3 1/4" × 36" | Base moulding | ☐ |
| Base moulding, short sides Both ends mitered 45°, short point to short point. | 4 | 1/2" × 3 1/4" × 20 1/4" | Base moulding | ☐ |
| Top boards, cross | 3 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 10 1/4" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Top boards, long | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 37" | 1x6 | ☐ |
| Lid corner blocks | 2 | 3/4" × 10 1/4" × 10 1/4" | 3/4" plywood | ☐ |
| Item | Qty | ✓ |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood, 3/4", half sheet Ripped into 15-3/4"-wide strips for the box. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Plywood/hardboard, 1/4", half sheet Bottom panel and any inset panels. | 1 each | ☐ |
| 2x2, 8 ft Base runners. Furring strips are fine. | 1 each | ☐ |
| Base moulding, 3-1/4" Wraps the base — miter the corners. | 20 foot | ☐ |
| 1x6 board, 10 ft total (Whitewood) Planked top boards. | 10 foot | ☐ |
| Wood glue | 4 oz | ☐ |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 2" Size to your moulding thickness plus the 3/4" plywood. | 80 each | ☐ |
| Wood screws, 1-1/4" | 20 each | ☐ |
| Exterior-mount hinges | 2 each | ☐ |
| Lid-support stay Optional but strongly recommended for a kid's toy box. | 1 each | ☐ |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber varies by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: Plywood/hardboard, 1/4", half sheet, 2x2, 8 ft, Wood glue
Nail and glue the 2x2 runners under the 1/4" bottom panel. The point of the runners is twofold: they raise the trunk off the floor so a spill can't wick into the plywood bottom, and they put the trunk's load directly over the joints, which tightens the whole base under weight instead of loosening it. Nothing fussy here — glue and brads hold it fine.
Tools: Drill / Driver, Speed Square. Materials: Plywood, 3/4", half sheet, Wood glue, Wood screws, 1-1/4"
Glue and screw the four 3/4" plywood panels into a rectangle — ends inside the front and back, or however your cut list is laid out. Keep it square as you fasten; a box that racks now will fight the lid later.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Drill / Driver. Materials: Wood glue, Wood screws, 1-1/4"
Attach the box down onto the base, glue and screw (or nail) from inside. Don't worry that the fasteners are light — the weight of a loaded trunk presses the box onto the base and keeps it seated. The seam between the two gets buried under moulding in the next step anyway.
Tools: Brad Nailer, Miter Saw. Materials: Base moulding, 3-1/4", Wood glue, Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 2"
Set your miter saw to a 45° bevel and cut the base moulding to wrap the bottom. Cut each piece a hair long and creep up on the fit — trimming a whisker off a too-long miter gives a tight corner; a gap on a too-short one is permanent. Glue and brad it on, choosing a nail length that reaches through the moulding and bites the 3/4" plywood behind it. Wider moulding works too if you want a beefier base.
Tools: Brad Nailer. Materials: 1x6 board, 10 ft total, Wood glue, Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 2"
Build the lid from the 1x6 boards laid across, then edge boards to finish it off. The planked layout adds character and, more usefully, caps every raw plywood edge on the lid so no end grain shows.
Tools: Drill / Driver. Materials: Exterior-mount hinges, Lid-support stay
Mount the lid with exterior-style trunk hinges. If a child will use this trunk, add a lid-support stay so the heavy lid can't slam shut on fingers — it's the only genuinely dangerous part of the build and the cheapest to solve.