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This is just the topper box, meant to sit on an existing piece of furniture — measure your own changing pad and adjust every dimension here before cutting, since the whole point is a snug fit around your specific pad rather than a fixed size. Attach the two end pieces to the front and back first, using pocket holes hidden on the insides.
Once the basic box is together, add the divider positioned to fit your own changing pad — sized right, it doubles as a handy wipes compartment alongside the pad itself. The topper isn't attached to the cabinet below by anything built into the frame, so you'll need to secure it yourself — a few pocket holes along the back edge into the cabinet top work, or an L-bracket, but something has to keep it from sliding off.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x4, 10 ft |
| 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 20 each |
| L brackets (optional, for securing to cabinet) | 2 each |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Front/back1x4, 10 ftMeasure your changing pad and adjust as needed. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
| Ends and divider1x4, 10 ftMeasure your changing pad and adjust as needed. | 3 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
Buy 2 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach the two end pieces to the front and back with pocket holes hidden on the insides.
Add the divider positioned to fit your changing pad.
Secure the topper to the cabinet with pocket holes along the back edge, or with L brackets.
Apply primer and paint, or stain and poly.
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