Baby Changing Table with Drawers and Topper

Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 14-1/2" side trim pieces. Attach to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, flush to the inside, keeping pocket holes hidden. The upper shelf can sit at any height — this plan leaves 12" of clearance under the lower shelf.

Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 38" trim pieces and attach to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, at the same heights as the side trim, flush to the inside of the legs.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes around all four edges of both shelves, spacing them every 6-8". Attach inset to the trim frames with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the 1x6 boards for attaching the top later, and 3/4" pocket holes on the ends for attaching to the legs. Attach the side and back aprons with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, keeping the back apron flush to the outside of the legs.

Attach the top through the predrilled holes in the 1x6 aprons with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach the shorter drawer-area trim to the inside of the drawer opening. Attach the long bottom trim piece with glue and finish nails, also using pocket holes to attach to the legs. Repeat for the second frame, positioning it so the 14" drawer slides can be attached at the back to the shorter trim pieces.

Build each drawer to fit its opening and the drawer slides, using 1-1/4" brad nails and glue for the box and 3/4" brad nails and glue for the bottom. Install with the drawer slides, insetting 3/4" to allow room for the drawer face.

Attach each drawer face with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue, then reinforce from inside with 1-1/4" screws. It's easier to attach handles or knobs before attaching the faces.

Build the topper frame with finish nails and glue or pocket holes — no bottom is needed. Attach it to the top of the table, or secure with a bracket on the back to keep it in place.