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The upper shelf height is genuinely yours to choose — this plan places it to leave 12" of clearance on the lower shelf, but the pocket-hole leg construction doesn't care where that shelf sits, so measure your own storage bins or baskets first and set the height to fit them. Drill every pocket hole facing the direction it needs before assembly: upward on the aprons and 1x6 sides for attaching the top later, and outward on the drawer-area trim for attaching to the legs — going back to add a pocket hole after the case is together is much harder than planning ahead.
Build the two drawers to fit their actual openings and the 14" slides you're using, inset 3/4" from the front face to leave room for the drawer faces. The topper is a separate, optional assembly with no need for a bottom — it can be screwed down or simply held in place with a bracket on the back, since its job is just to keep a changing pad from sliding off the table, not to bear weight.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywood or MDF, half sheet | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 12 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, at least 16" x 35" | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ftFor the topper. | 2 each |
| 1-1/4" pocket hole screws | 1 box |
| 14" drawer slides, set | 2 set |
| 1-1/4" and 3/4" brad nails | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Drawer knobs or handles | 2 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| LegsPine 2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 32" |
| Side trimPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Front and back trimPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 38" |
| Shelves3/4" plywood or MDF, half sheet | 2 | 3/4" × 14 1/2" × 38" |
| Sides (aprons)Pine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Back (apron)Pine 1x6 | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 38" |
| Top3/4" plywood or MDF, half sheet | 1 | 3/4" × 17 1/2" × 41" |
| Drawer area trim, longPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 38" |
| Drawer area trim, shortPine 1x2 | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4 3/4" |
| Drawer sidesPine 1x4 | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Drawer front/backPine 1x4 | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15 3/8" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood, at least 16" x 35" | 2 | 1/4" × 15 1/2" × 16 7/8" |
| Drawer facesPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 4 1/2" × 17 5/8" |
| Topper long sidesPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 41" |
| Topper endsPine 1x3 | 3 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 14-1/2" side trim pieces. Attach to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, flush to the inside, keeping pocket holes hidden. The upper shelf can sit at any height — this plan leaves 12" of clearance under the lower shelf.
Drill two 3/4" pocket holes on each end of the 38" trim pieces and attach to the legs with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, at the same heights as the side trim, flush to the inside of the legs.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes around all four edges of both shelves, spacing them every 6-8". Attach inset to the trim frames with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the 1x6 boards for attaching the top later, and 3/4" pocket holes on the ends for attaching to the legs. Attach the side and back aprons with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, keeping the back apron flush to the outside of the legs.
Attach the top through the predrilled holes in the 1x6 aprons with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Attach the shorter drawer-area trim to the inside of the drawer opening. Attach the long bottom trim piece with glue and finish nails, also using pocket holes to attach to the legs. Repeat for the second frame, positioning it so the 14" drawer slides can be attached at the back to the shorter trim pieces.
Build each drawer to fit its opening and the drawer slides, using 1-1/4" brad nails and glue for the box and 3/4" brad nails and glue for the bottom. Install with the drawer slides, insetting 3/4" to allow room for the drawer face.
Attach each drawer face with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue, then reinforce from inside with 1-1/4" screws. It's easier to attach handles or knobs before attaching the faces.
Build the topper frame with finish nails and glue or pocket holes — no bottom is needed. Attach it to the top of the table, or secure with a bracket on the back to keep it in place.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →