NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
A slipper chair is a low, armless upholstered chair, and this one is smart about how it comes together: the leg frame, the seat box, and the back frame are each built and upholstered on their own, then joined with carriage bolts at the end. Doing the upholstery on separate, manageable sub-assemblies is far easier than trying to wrap a fully-built chair, and the bolts mean you can take it apart if a cushion ever needs redoing.
The frame is 2x4 and 2x6 joined with 2-1/2" pocket screws — no delicate joinery, because it's all hidden under foam and fabric. The one shaped part is the back, which bends slightly over a curve; the 1/4" lauan back rest flexes to it, which is what gives the chair its comfortable lean.
Upholstery is the real skill here. The seat gets 5" foam, the back 1" foam, both set with spray adhesive, wrapped in batting then fabric, and stapled to the underside/inside where the staples won't show. Pull everything taut and work corners neatly — lumpy corners are the tell of a rushed job. Paint or stain any exposed frame parts before upholstering so you're not cutting in around fabric.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2 board, 6 ft | 1 each |
| 2x4 board, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 2x6 board, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" lauan or hardboard, half sheetSeat and back panels. | 1 each |
| 4" carriage bolts with nuts | 4 each |
| Fender washers | 8 each |
| 5" upholstery foamSeat cushion. | 1 each |
| 1" upholstery foamBack. | 1 each |
| Upholstery batting | 2 yard |
| Fabric | 3 yard |
| Upholstery tacks / staples | 120 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Wood glue and spray adhesive | 12 oz |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 10" |
| Leg frame / support / seat box2x4 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 23" |
| Leg frame sides2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 26 1/2" |
| Seat box front/back2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 24 1/4" |
| Seat support2x2 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23" |
| Back frame sides2x6 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 34" |
| Back frame rails2x4 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 23" |
| Back frame bottom2x6Ripped to 5" wide. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5" × 23" |
| Back panel1/4" lauan or hardboard | 1 | 1/4" × 26" × 30 1/2" |
| Seat panel1/4" lauan or hardboard | 1 | 1/4" × 23 3/4" × 26" |
Buy 9 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
4 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the frame pieces. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4s plus one long edge of the sides and front (for attaching the top). Assemble with glue and 2-1/2" pocket screws. Paint or stain any parts that will stay exposed and set aside.
Build the seat box frame with pocket holes and 2-1/2" screws, then attach the 1/4" seat panel with glue and 1-1/4" brads. Cut the 5" foam and set it with spray adhesive, cover the foam and box in batting then fabric, and staple to the underside where it won't show.
Assemble the back frame with pocket holes and 2-1/2" screws. Attach the 1/4" back rest with glue and brads — it bends slightly over the curve, which is the point. Set 1" foam with spray adhesive, wrap the back, sides, and top in batting and fabric, and staple to the inside.
Set the upholstered seat box on the leg frame and secure with 2-1/2" pocket screws driven through the upper edges of the frame. Clamp the back frame in place, drill for the carriage bolts through the back's lower stretcher into the seat box and through the back's bottom into the chair frame, and bolt it together with washers. Adjust for square, and it's done.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.