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This is a scaled-down version of the full-size lemonade stand elsewhere in the catalog, built entirely from scrap 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4 — the kind of project that clears out the offcut bin. Two boxy counter units join at an angle, each with a window-sill style top, and a bevel-cut roof cap pulls the whole thing together into a little storefront.
The only technique that isn't pure box-building is the pair of 30° bevels on the roof cap pieces: cut those on the miter saw with the piece held flat, not tipped up, and keep fingers well clear since the parts are small. Everything else is pocket-hole joinery sized down, so the skills transfer directly from full-size furniture — just slower, because the pieces are tiny and easy to mis-clamp.
Signs and an awning cut from thin plywood scrap are what make this read as a "stand" rather than two boxes. Keep them thin (1/4" or less) so they don't look chunky next to everything else.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftScraps are fine — nothing on this project needs a full clean board. | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4 scrapOnly about 8" needed. | 1 each |
| Plywood scrap, 1/4"For the awning and signs. | 2 sq ft |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
| Brad nails, 5/8" and 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 2 sheet |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Counter frame long piecesPine | 3 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Counter frame short piecesPine | 6 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 10" |
| Counter frame short piecePine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10" |
| Wall piecesPine | 5 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 7 1/2" |
| Wall piecePine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 7 1/2" |
| Window sillPine | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 7 1/2" |
| Roof cap, single bevel endPineOne end cut at 30°, long-point measurement. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4" |
| Roof cap, both ends beveledPineBoth ends at 30°, not parallel — long point to long point. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill 3/4" pocket holes in the ends of the 10" and 7-1/2" pieces. Glue and pocket-screw them into two flat wall frames — the counter fronts and the back wall. Keep everything square while the glue sets; a small assembly racks out of square easily if you don't clamp it.
Join the two wall units together with pocket holes and glue once both are square.
Trace a gentle curve on the front corners of the window sill and the second counter piece, then cut with the jigsaw. Sharp square corners on a toy at kid height are the first thing that gets bumped into — round them over.
Nail and glue the counters to the top of the wall units. Hot glue also works if you'd rather skip the brad nailer for this step.
Glue and nail the four bevel-cut roof cap pieces on top, mitered corners meeting at 30°. Dry-fit before gluing — these pieces are small enough that a bad angle is easy to miss until you're trying to force a gap closed.
Cut an awning shape and a couple of small signs from the 1/4" plywood scrap. Hot glue or brad-nail them to the front — this is the detail that turns two boxes into a recognizable little stand, so take a few extra minutes to get the awning shape looking intentional.
Sand every edge smooth, especially the jigsaw-cut curves. Paint or leave raw — either way, this is small enough to finish in one sitting.
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