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This table's X pedestals are built from angle-cut 2x4s — one long diagonal per leg, cut at complementary 40° and 10° angles — with each of the four leg pieces built identical before the two are crossed and joined at their actual physical intersection rather than a calculated one. Cross two of the leg pieces, mark where they actually meet, then measure and cut the fill-in pieces to that real intersection — a compound-angle X is one of the few joints in this catalog genuinely easier to fit by marking in place than by trusting a cut-list number down to the fraction.
The tabletop gets a small but real upgrade available to anyone with a table saw: ripping 1/4" off each edge of the 1x6 boards squares up their factory-rounded edges for a tighter, flatter glue-up — and this plan's own numbers already account for that width loss, so the table comes out the stated size whether or not you rip. The same accounting applies to the base's 2x4s, which can optionally be ripped down to 3" wide for a slightly finer-looking pedestal.
Build the tabletop and its apron as one complete, sanded unit before the base ever gets near it — pocket-holing the apron separately, then attaching it to the tabletop underside with an even 1/2" reveal on all sides, is what gives the table a clean apron line uninterrupted by base hardware. The center support that ties the two X pedestals together gets measured and cut to fit the ACTUAL inside dimension of your finished tabletop, not a plan number, since a rectangular top assembled from seven individual boards rarely lands on an exact calculated width.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x6, 6 ftTabletop. | 7 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftApron. | 3 each |
| 2x4, 10 ftX base. | 4 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 75 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 12 each |
| Brad nails, 2" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, 120 and 220 grit | 8 each |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Tabletop boards1x6, 6 ftRip 1/4" off each edge for a squared, tighter glue-up — this cut list already accounts for the width loss. | 7 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 72" |
| Apron sides1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 69 1/2" |
| Apron ends1x3, 8 ftCut to your tabletop's actual width minus 1". | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 34" |
| Leg diagonals2x4, 10 ftBoth ends cut at 40° off square, long point to short point measurement, ends parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 36 1/4" |
| Leg lower pieces2x4, 10 ftOne end at 40° off square, other end at 10° off square, long point to long point. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 19" |
| X fill-in pieces2x4, 10 ftMeasure and cut to fit the actual crossing point — treat 17" as an estimate. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 17" |
| X top connectors2x4, 10 ftMeasure and cut to fit. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 36" |
| Center leg support2x4, 10 ftMeasure the actual inside of your assembled tabletop before cutting. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 42" |
Buy 15 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
7 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Optionally rip 1/4" off each edge of the 1x6 boards on a table saw to square the factory-rounded edges. Drill 3/4" pocket holes every 8" on the underside of all but one board and attach them edge to edge with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Measure and cut the apron pieces to fit your actual assembled tabletop width. Drill pocket holes for attaching to the tabletop, plus two pocket holes on the ends of the longer apron boards to build the apron itself. Build the apron first, then attach it to the underside of the tabletop with an even 1/2" gap on all sides. Sand the tabletop with 120 grit, working with the grain.
Optionally rip the 2x4 base stock down to 3" wide on a table saw — this plan's numbers already account for the adjustment either way. Cut the leg diagonals and lower pieces with a compound miter saw. Attach the lower pieces to the diagonals with glue and 2" brad nails. Build all four leg pieces identical, and mark each lower piece as the bottom to avoid confusing orientation later.
Cross two leg pieces and mark where they actually meet. Measure that marked area and cut the fill-in pieces to fit. Attach the two main leg pieces together at the center, then attach the fill-in pieces with 2" brad nails and glue. Repeat for the second X.
Measure the inside of your tabletop (between the apron pieces) and cut the two X top connectors to that length. Attach to the tops of the leg sets with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Set the legs inside the table and screw through the apron to attach.
Measure the actual base span and cut the center support piece to fit. Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end and attach to the center of the two Xs with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Finish sanding with 220 grit and apply your finish.
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