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This is about as few parts as a stable stool can have: one top board carried by two side supports and a single front brace tying them together, with no back needed since the unit sits flush against the base of the toilet in use. The side-support height is the one number worth treating as a starting point rather than a fixed rule — cut them taller or shorter than the stock 8-1/4" to match your own toilet height and the actual squat angle you're building for.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 2 ft | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 oz |
| Finish | 1 can |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| TopPine 1x10 | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 24" |
| SidesPine 1x10Adjust taller or shorter for a different stool height. | 2 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 8 1/4" |
| Front supportPine 1x8 | 1 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 22 1/2" |
Buy 2 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the top, two sides, and front support to size.
Drill pocket holes in the top edges of the two side pieces and attach them to the underside of the top board, positioned near the front and back edges so the top is fully supported.
Drill pocket holes in the ends of the front support and attach it between the two sides at the front, tying the whole stool together.
Sand every surface smooth, easing any sharp edges, and apply a moisture-resistant finish suited to bathroom use.
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