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A handrail is a parametric build — every run is a different length, so there's no single cut list that fits every project. This plan is written around a representative 6-foot straight section: scale the board counts up proportionally for a longer run, and treat the numbers here as a worked example of the method, not a fixed shopping list.
The part that actually takes thought is baluster spacing, not the joinery. Count how many balusters you need for your run at your chosen gap, then check whether that's an odd or even number — an odd count centers a baluster on the rail's centerline, an even count centers a gap instead. Get the first baluster placed correctly off the center and every other one follows from a consistent spacing block, which is worth cutting as a dedicated jig even for one run.
Check your local building code before you build: most residential codes cap the gap between balusters (commonly 4") and require additional support posts beyond a certain span (commonly 6 feet), specifically so a small child can't fit through or climb it. This plan assumes a straight section under 6 feet needing only start and end posts — anything longer or with corners needs more posts than shown here.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pressure-treated 4x4, 8 ftYields two posts for a 6 ft run — cut to your finished rail height plus whatever you're anchoring into. | 1 each |
| Pressure-treated 2x4, 8 ftTop and bottom rails. | 2 each |
| Pressure-treated 2x2, 8 ftBalusters — about 16 for a 6 ft run at roughly 4-1/2" gaps; recount for your actual run and spacing. | 6 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftTrim to cover the pocket holes on the inside face. | 2 each |
| 3" countersunk screwsAttaching rails to posts. | 1 box |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2"Attaching rails to posts and balusters. | 1 box |
| Mounting hardware for attaching to building/floorVaries with what you're anchoring into — ledger screws, post bases, or concrete anchors. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| PostsPressure-treated 4x4Example height — cut to fit your rail height and mounting method. | 2 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 42" |
| Top railPressure-treated 2x46 ft example run; cut to your actual span. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 72" |
| Bottom railPressure-treated 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 72" |
| BalustersPressure-treated 2x2Count and length depend on your run and code-required spacing — this is for a 6 ft run at ~4-1/2" gaps. | 16 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 32" |
| Inside trim1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 72" |
Buy 13 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
8 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the top and bottom 2x4 rails to the overall length of your straight run. Attach the 4x4 posts to the ends with 3" countersunk screws and wood glue through the top and bottom rails. If your run is longer than about 6 feet, check your local code — you'll likely need an additional mid-span post, centered along the run.
Leave a gap at the bottom of the rail section — like a toe-kick — by setting the bottom 2x4 up off the floor rather than flush to it, keeping to your code's minimum baluster-gap spacing.
Figure out how many balusters your run needs given your baluster width and target gap. If the count comes out odd, center one baluster on the rail's midpoint and work outward. If it comes out even, center a gap on the midpoint instead and work outward from there.
Starting from your centered baluster (or the one next to your centered gap), add the remaining balusters at your calculated spacing. Cut a spacer block at that exact spacing and use it against each baluster as you go — it's faster and more consistent than measuring and marking every single one.
The pocket holes for the balusters will show on the inside face of the rails. Cover them with 1x4 trim, glued and nailed on — it also gives the inside a clean, finished look instead of exposed joinery.
If your handrail turns a corner, use the corner post as the shared end for the next straight section and repeat the process.
Attach the handrail to the floor and wall or structure it's protecting. Every installation is different — ledger screws into framing, post bases bolted to a deck, or concrete anchors into a slab — so choose hardware rated for your actual mounting surface and the load a handrail needs to carry.
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