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Step-by-step build — 11 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Build the front and back frames from the legs and frame rails.
Add the back panel boards to the back frame — a small gap between them is fine and will vary depending on your actual board widths.
Add the wider front panel boards to the front frame. Tip: you can drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the 2x2 legs now, to make attaching the lower front piece in the next step easier.
Attach the lower 2x2 front piece using the pocket holes from the previous step, or countersunk screws.
Connect the front and back frames with the 2x4 side rails, spacing the shelf slats roughly 1-1/4" apart as you go.
Add the side panel boards to close in both sides of the housing.
Build the mitered top frame separately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket screws, then attach it to the top of the housing with countersunk screws or nails. This completes the main cooler housing — your cooler should now slide in and sit level inside it.
Build the beveled lid frame and add the top panel boards over it.
Glue and attach the inner frame to the underside of the lid — this is what registers the lid's position over the box opening and keeps it from sliding off-center, so size and place it carefully before worrying about the hinges. Once it's fit and centered, install the hinges.
Attach the arched shelf-support brackets to the 2x2 legs using pocket screws or countersunk screws, then set the shelf on top.
If you'd like the stand to roll, install caster wheels at the base of each leg.