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Step-by-step build — 9 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along the side and top edges on the insides of the two plywood sides. Attach the 1x2 trim to the front and top edges with 1-1/4" nails and glue before you go any further — it's much easier to do flat than after the carcass is assembled.
Attach the legs to the sides through the predrilled pocket holes. Then attach the bottom with pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Add the front and back rails to establish the dresser's shape. If you're adding the drawer dividers, consider installing them now too — it gets tight to fit a drill in once the case closes up further.
You may need a countersink bit to drive screws in the tighter spots. Accuracy is what makes or breaks a five-drawer bank — every opening needs to be identical, or the drawer faces won't line up in a row later.
Attach trim to the outside edges of the top panel with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach the completed top to the dresser.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom shelf and attach it to the frame with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Build each drawer box 1" narrower than its opening's overall width — that's the clearance standard bottom-mount slides need, and the number to double-check against your actual openings before you cut.
Attach the drawer slides to the case and to the boxes, then hang the drawers. Attach the drawer faces last, with an even gap on all sides — spacers held against the case help keep the gap consistent while you nail and glue.
Attach the back panel last, once you're confident the drawers are sliding correctly — leaving it off until now means you can still reach in and adjust anything that isn't running smoothly.