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Getting the four posts set square in the ground is the one step this whole structure depends on — check diagonals before the concrete or pier blocks cure, because every cleat, every piece of post cladding, and the entire roof grid is measured relative to those four posts. There's no fixing an out-of-square post layout later without redoing the roof framing to match.
The post cladding is really a box built around the structural post rather than a wrap: 2x2 cleats go on first, then ripped 1x8 and 1x10 boards nailed to the cleats hide the post (and its foundation hardware) inside a clean square column, capped with mitered 1x4 trim and a strip of moulding. None of this cladding carries any load — it's entirely cosmetic, which is exactly why it's fine to use non-treated boards for it even though the structural posts and the roof framing need to be treated lumber. The roof itself is two layers for a reason: the first course of 2x4s sits directly on the posts and sets the overall square, and only once those diagonals match again does the second, more closely spaced layer of 2x2s go down across the top — trying to place all the roof members in one pass makes keeping the whole thing square far harder.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Treated 4x4 post, 8-12 ftLength depends on how much is buried or set in pier blocks. | 4 each |
| Post brackets or pier blocks | 4 each |
| Treated 2x4, 12 ft | 8 each |
| Treated 2x2, 12 ftIf unavailable, rip three treated 2x6, 12 ft boards into three 2x2s each on a table saw. | 9 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftFurring strips are fine here — purely cosmetic post cladding. | 2 each |
| Treated 1x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Exterior moulding, 3/4" x 3/4" | 2 each |
| Treated 1x10, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Treated 1x8, 8 ftIf treated stock isn't available, sealed untreated boards work since this cladding is fully covered and vertical. | 3 each |
| Galvanized finish nails, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Exterior wood screws, 3" | 1 box |
| Wood glue, exterior | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Short cleatsTreated 2x2 | 16 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" |
| Long cleatsTreated 2x2 | 16 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 6 1/2" |
| Post cladding, narrow sideTreated 1x8, ripped to width | 8 | 3/4" × 6 1/2" × 30" |
| Post cladding, wide sideTreated 1x10, ripped to width | 8 | 3/4" × 8" × 30" |
| Post cap trimTreated 1x4Longest-point measurement, both ends mitered at 45° off square, not parallel. | 16 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Post cap mouldingExterior moulding, 3/4" x 3/4"Cut to fit around each post cap. | 4 | 3/4" × 3/4" × 12" |
| Roof boards, first layerTreated 2x4Ends cut in a decorative pattern of your choice. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 140" |
| Roof boards, second layerTreated 2x2Ends cut in a decorative pattern of your choice. | 9 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 140" |
Some parts are longer than a 8 ft board, so there is no honest board count to show here. Open the board plan to pick a longer stock length — it names every part that does not fit.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Set the four posts in the ground, spaced exactly as designed, and check the diagonals to confirm they're square before the foundation sets. The posts need to stick up 107" out of the ground — longer if using buried pier blocks.
Attach the short cleats to all four posts with 2-1/2" galvanized finish nails and glue. The bottom cleat should sit just above the brackets holding the posts to the ground.
Add the long cleats to complete each post's cleat frame.
Rip the 1x8 boards down to a 6-1/2" width and the 1x10 boards to an 8" width on the table saw. Nail the ripped boards to the cleats to hide the post and its foundation hardware inside a clean square column.
Miter the post cap trim at 45° around the base of each post cap and attach with finish nails and glue. Measure and add the moulding around each cap for a finished look, using 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Cut all the roof board ends into a decorative pattern of your choice. Screw the first roof boards up with 3" exterior screws, checking with a level that they sit level across the posts.
Check the diagonals of the structure again. Once they match, rest two more 2x4s on top of the existing ones, to the outsides, and screw to the posts. Add the remaining 2x4s spaced 22" apart, using brackets, pocket hole screws, or long screws predrilled and countersunk from the top.
Space the 2x2s across the top and screw them to the 2x4s (and to the posts where present) with 3" exterior screws and glue, fastening to every 2x4 crossing beneath for the most support.
If the structure has any wobble, cut and screw in corner braces at the post-to-roof joints — this adds a surprising amount of rigidity for very little material. In high snow-load or high-wind areas, upgrading to 2x6 roof boards and notching the joints adds further strength.
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