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This console applies the waterfall-framed coffee table's signature 45°-mitered face frame technique to a taller, narrower entryway piece — two identical mitered 1x3 frames, one for the top and one that becomes the visible base, with the 1x12 top and sides sandwiched between them. Building both face frames first and checking that they're truly identical (stack them and compare directly) is the step that determines whether the whole piece reads as one continuous frame or two slightly different ones.
Assembly happens face-frame-first: lay one frame down with its pocket holes facing up, attach the beveled top so its outside edge is perfectly flush and its corners match the frame's corners exactly, then add the sides with the same flush-edge discipline. The bottom shelf goes in next, and only then does the whole thing get flipped over so the second face frame can be attached — building the piece as a stack rather than a box lets you check flush and square at every single interface as you go, instead of discovering a gap after the whole thing is closed up.
The inside side panels get fit last, placed inside the outer legs and pinned with brad nails plus a few pocket screws driven up through the bottom — a detail that adds real rigidity to a narrow, tall piece that would otherwise rely entirely on the face frames for its structure.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12, 10 ft | 2 each |
| 1x3, 8 ft | 4 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4", coarse thread | 75 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Sandpaper, 120 grit | 4 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Face frame long members1x3, 8 ftLong point to long point, both ends cut at 45°, ends not parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 52" |
| Face frame short members1x3, 8 ftLong point to long point, both ends cut at 45°, ends not parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30" |
| Top1x12, 10 ftLong point to long point, both ends cut at 45° bevel, ends not parallel. | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 52" |
| Sides1x12, 10 ftLong point measurement, one end cut at 45° bevel. | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 30" |
| Bottom shelf1x12, 10 ft | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 50 1/2" |
| Inside sides1x12, 10 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 26 3/4" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two identical mitered face frames, carefully matching corners — stack them on top of each other and confirm they're exact matches before continuing. This is the step that determines the whole piece's final look.
Lay one face frame down with its pocket holes facing upward. Attach the beveled top so its outside edge is perfectly flush and its corners match the frame exactly. Don't overdrive the pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes along both edges of the two side pieces, avoiding the area where the bottom shelf will attach. Attach the sides to the face frame, carefully matching the outside edges. Attach the 1x12 corners together with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
Drill 3/4" pocket holes along all four sides of the bottom shelf and attach to the face frame and sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Flip the assembly over and attach the second face frame with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Place the inside side panels inside the legs and attach with 1-1/4" brad nails, plus a few pocket screws driven up through the bottom into the inside panels' bottom edge for extra rigidity. Sand and finish.
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