Wall-Mounted Can Organizer

Attach the sides to the top and bottom rails with glue and 2" screws — BACK edges all flush, the 15° fronts overhanging. That flush back is what lets the rack hang flat while the lanes tilt.

Pre-drill with a bit matched to the screw shaft (threads excluded); 1x3 ends split for less. Square the frame with the speed square before the glue grabs.

Install the three vertical dividers — two screws top, two bottom — spacing the lanes to your cans plus rolling clearance. Standard 3"-diameter soup cans want lanes about 3-1/2" clear; dry-fit a can and let it vote.

Glue AMPLY and screw the two back support rails across the back with 2" screws, making sure screws land in the bottom angled rail — the source's emphasis, because that rail carries every can's weight into these supports, and these supports carry it into the wall.

Lay the acrylic over the front. Drill holes through it LARGER than the screw shank-plus-threads — over every divider, at top, middle, and bottom — without drilling deep into the wood. Fasten with the flat-bottomed 1-1/4" screws, snug but not cranked.

Oversize hole + flat head + gentle torque is the whole recipe for screwing acrylic without cracking it. Skip any one and the crack arrives with the first temperature swing.

Hang the rack with 3" screws through the back supports into wall STUDS — both supports, both studs if the rack spans two.

Load from the top: new cans in back, gravity rolls the oldest forward. Congratulations — the pantry now practices inventory rotation better than most restaurants.