Wall Kitchen Cabinet, 24" Basic Carcass

Sketch the cabinet on graph paper and write out a cut list for your own chosen cabinet width — this file works the numbers for 24" as a concrete example. The face frame is the full cabinet width, but the carcass underneath is 1/2" narrower in total (1/4" per side), which gives you room to align face frames across a run of cabinets even on an imperfect wall.

Drill pocket holes for attaching the face frame and shelf-pin holes for the adjustable shelf before assembly. Place pocket holes on the outside faces where an adjacent cabinet will cover them, or where a 1/4" plywood veneer will finish an exposed end.

Add the top cleat, inset from the front, to give the cabinet something solid to screw to the wall. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the cleat's back side and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Add more cleats under any fixed shelves if desired.

Attach the plywood back with glue and nails, using it to square up the whole carcass.

Trim the adjustable shelf about 1/4" narrower than the opening so it drops easily onto the shelf pins. Apply edge banding to the front edge for a finished look if the cabinet will be stained.

Attach the face frame to the front of the carcass with glue and pocket hole screws. When hanging, screw into wall studs and attach neighboring cabinets to each other with cabinet screws. For full-overlay doors, leave a 1/2" gap between all doors, and use full-overlay face-frame Euro-style hinges to hang them.