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This is a look-alike, not a working bench — the open-frame legs (built from 1x3s and 1x4s with the joints hidden on the inside via pocket holes) exist because they're easier to source and assemble than solid 4x4 posts, not because the piece needs a workbench's real structural mass. If you'd rather use solid 4x4 legs instead, the plan supports it: swap the 2x2 top-of-leg support for a 1x4, make the legs 30" long, and add a matching 1x4 to the bottom.
The splayed feet are the signature detail — both the 19-1/2" and 21-1/2" foot pieces get 45°/30° angled end cuts so the long-point-to-long-point measurement stays true to the cut list even though the ends aren't square. Sand the rounded foot ends in stages, coarse to fine, for a worn, vintage look rather than a sharp factory edge.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 6 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 2-1/2" and 2" self-tapping star-bit wood screws | 1 box |
| 2-1/2" pocket hole screws | 1 box |
| 1-1/4" pocket hole screws | 1 box |
| 2" and 1-1/4" brad nails | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Finishing supplies | 1 each |
| Towel bar | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Feet, top piecesPine 2x4Ends cut at 45°, long point to long point stays 19-1/2". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Feet, bottom piecesPine 2x4Ends cut at 30° off square, long point to long point stays 21-1/2". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Feet solesPine 1x4 | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" |
| Leg fronts and backsPine 1x4 | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 30 3/4" |
| Leg sidesPine 1x3 | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 30 3/4" |
| Top of leg supportPine 2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 13" |
| Bottom of legsPine 1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Bottom of shelfPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 48" |
| Shelf endsPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
| Shelf sidesPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 49 1/2" |
| Tabletop boardsPine 2x4 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 61" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x4 longPine 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 64" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x4 shortPine 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 13" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x4 endPine 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 48 1/2" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x4 end shortPine 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 19" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x6 shortPine 2x6 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 4" |
| Tabletop trim, 2x6 front (towel bar board)Pine 2x6 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 14" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
7 boards
Cut the 19-1/2" foot pieces with 45° end angles and the 21-1/2" foot pieces with 30°-off-square end angles, keeping the long-point-to-long-point measurement true to the cut list. Line one of each up as a pair and screw together with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Sand the ends rounded, working from coarse to fine grit.
Nail or screw the feet soles to the bottoms of the feet with 1-1/4" screws and glue, or nails.
Build four open-frame legs from the 1x3s and 1x4s, using pocket holes on the inside faces to hide the screw holes.
Screw the bottom leg support to the legs and the top support to the legs with 2" screws and glue.
Attach the assembled feet to the bottom of each leg assembly.
Attach the shelf sides to the bottom shelf with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Attach the shelf ends to the bottom and sides with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Drill pocket holes and join the tabletop boards with 2" pocket hole screws.
Screw the 2x4 and 2x6 tabletop trim to the sides of the tabletop with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
Screw the remaining 2x6 trim to the front and attach the towel bar to it.
Use 2-1/2" screws to screw the leg supports to the tabletop, joining the base to the top. Sand and finish as desired.
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1 board
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2 boards
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →