Vintage Drawer Bench

Build the two side panels — legs plus 1x12 sides. Measure your 1x12s first and confirm they're 11-1/4" wide; adjust if not. Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the tops of the sides now for attaching the bench top later — much easier on a loose part.

Attach the 1x12 back to the two sides the same way you built the side panels. Drill upward-facing 3/4" pocket holes along the top of the back too, for the top.

Attach the two 1x2 front trim pieces to the legs. The spacing between them should be about 1/4" wider than your actual 1x8 drawer-face width — measure the 1x8s, they're rarely exactly 7-1/4". This gap is what leaves room for the slides and the face reveal.

Add the center divider between the two drawers, then attach the bottom base trim with glue and nails.

These cleats carry the drawer slides. Use pocket holes to attach the center cleat and 1-1/4" finish nails for the side cleats. If the center feels flimsy, you can add a fifth leg centered under the center cleat for support.

Build each drawer to the dimensions of its opening and the specific slides you're using — not to nominal numbers. Set the box 3/4" back from the front to leave room for the applied drawer face, and mount them on the euro bottom-mount slides.

Attach each 1x8 drawer face — nailed from outside or screwed from inside with 1-1/4" fasteners. It's usually easier to mount the knob or handle to the face first. Shim for a 1/8" gap all around so both faces line up.

Join the three 1x6 top planks with 3/4" pocket holes, then add the end pieces and finally the back trim to frame it. Attach the top to the bench by driving through the upward-facing pocket holes in the sides and back. Sand and finish.