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The chicken wire is what makes this a produce cupboard instead of a generic cabinet — solid doors trap humidity and hide what's going soft, while open wire fronts let air circulate and let you see at a glance what needs eating. Staple the wire to the inside of each door frame before hanging it; it's much easier to pull taut against a flat frame on the bench than after the door is already on its hinges.
Build the face frame as its own flat assembly before attaching it to the carcass, then cut each door to fit its own opening — 1/4" smaller in both height and width — rather than trusting a single fixed door size across all three, since even careful casework construction leaves openings a hair different from each other.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 12 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 4-1/4" base moulding, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, beadboard, or other backing, 1/4 sheet | 1 each |
| Chicken wire or wire mesh and staples | 1 each |
| Surface mount hinges, set | 3 set |
| Clasps | 3 each |
| Knobs or handles | 3 each |
| 1-1/4" pocket hole screws | 1 box |
| 1-1/4" and 1" finish nails | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 2 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| TopPine 1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 17" |
| SidesPine 1x12 | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 38 1/2" |
| ShelvesPine 1x12 | 3 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 14 1/2" |
| Back1/4" plywood, beadboard, or other backing, 1/4 sheet | 1 | 1/4" × 16" × 39 1/4" |
| Face frame topPine 1x2 | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 17" |
| Face frame sidesPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
| Shelf trimPine 1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13" |
| Door stilesPine 1x22 per door; cut to fit each opening, 1/4" less than actual height. | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6 1/4" |
| Door railsPine 1x22 per door; cut to fit each opening, 1/4" less than actual width. | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 12 3/4" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the basic carcass out of the 1x12 boards, using 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Build the face frame with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach the completed face frame to the front of the cupboard with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Attach the 1/4" plywood back with 1" finish nails and glue.
Cut the base moulding to fit, mitering the front corners. Nail on with nails long enough to pass through the moulding into the 3/4"-thick sides and front (typically 1" nails), with glue.
Build each door frame to fit its own opening, 1/4" less in height and width. Staple chicken wire or wire mesh to the inside of each frame, then hang with surface mount hinges. Add a clasp and knob to each door.
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