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This table is really two different storage towers sharing one long butcher-block top: a shallow 1x8 cubby tower for supplies you want to see and grab, and a deep 1x12 shelf tower for the bulkier stuff, joined by a pair of drawers in the middle. Both towers use the same joinery — pocket holes and pocket hole screws are what the plan recommends, though 2" self-tapping screws and glue work as a substitute; brad nails alone are specifically called out as not strong enough to hold up over time here.
The 1x4 board inset at the top back of each 1x12 shelf isn't decorative — it adds real structure to the shelf assembly and gives the drawer slides something solid to screw into later. Build the shelf sides and this back support before anything else, since everything downstream references it.
The drawers are sized to fit the gap left between the two towers once they're both screwed to the underside of the countertop with the correct 24-1/2" spacing between them — build the towers and set that spacing first, then measure your own actual opening before cutting drawer parts, since the drawer cut list is explicitly approximate. If you'd rather have one continuous shelf instead of a cubby tower up front, the plan allows a straightforward substitution: extend the 1x12 shelves to run the full 28-1/2" length and skip the 1x8 front shelf entirely.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x8, 8 ftCubby tower sides and shelves. | 2 each |
| 1x8, 6 ft | 1 each |
| 1x12, 6 ftShelf tower sides. | 2 each |
| 1x12, 8 ftShelf tower shelves. | 2 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftShelf back supports. | 1 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftDrawer box sides. | 1 each |
| 1x3, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1/4" plywood, 24" x 24"Drawer bottoms. | 1 each |
| Drawer slides, 12" side mount full extension | 2 set |
| Brad nails, 3/4" and 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Butcher block tabletop, 30" x 48" | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Cubby tower sides1x8 | 4 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| Cubby tower shelves1x8 | 10 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 10 1/4" |
| Shelf tower sides1x12 | 4 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 34 1/2" |
| Shelf tower shelves1x12 | 8 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 21 1/4" |
| Shelf back supports1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 21 1/4" |
| Drawer box sides1x3Measure your actual opening before cutting — approximate. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 12" |
| Drawer box front and back1x3Approximate — fit to your opening. | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 22" |
| Drawer bottoms1/4" plywood, 24" x 24" | 2 | 1/4" × 12" × 23 1/2" |
| Drawer faces1x4 | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 24 1/4" |
Buy 11 boards at 8 ft.
4 boards
3 boards
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the 1x12 side shelves with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, or 2" self-tapping screws with glue if you'd rather skip the jig — brad nails alone aren't recommended for this joint. Add the 1x4 board inset at the top back of each shelf; it braces the assembly and gives you something solid to screw a drawer slide into later.
Build the 1x8 front shelves and attach them to the front of each 1x12 shelf tower with screws. This is a good time to paint or finish the shelves before the top goes on.
Carefully attach both shelf towers to the underside of the butcher block top, leaving a 24-1/2" gap between them so the drawers will fit. Attach with screws through the top shelf.
Measure the actual 24-1/2" gap between the towers before cutting drawer parts — the drawer cut list is approximate. Build each drawer box from the 1x3 sides, front, and back with pocket holes and glue, add the plywood bottom, mount on the 12" drawer slides, and attach a 1x4 drawer face centered on the opening.
Sand the whole table, touch up any exposed edges, and finish to match your space.
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