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This bed keeps the joinery honest and simple — legs, a curved or flat panel, and top trim, repeated for both the headboard and footboard — which makes it a good first bed-frame build. The headboard's curve is the one place that takes real care: mark it out generously, cut with a jigsaw staying outside the line, then sand progressively from coarse to fine grit until the curve reads as smooth and intentional rather than jigsawed.
The side rails support the mattress two ways depending on what you're using: position the cleats at the base of the rail if you're running a box spring, or 1-1/2" from the top if you're going bare-slat with no box spring. Get that cleat height decision made before you cut, since it changes where the rails attach relative to the headboard and footboard.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x6, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x10, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Finish nails, 2" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 6 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Headboard railsPine 1x8One cut with a gentle curved top. | 2 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 40 1/2" |
| Headboard front legsPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 33 1/2" |
| Headboard side legsPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 33 1/2" |
| Headboard/footboard top trimPine 1x2 | 8 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 2 1/4" |
| Footboard panelPine 1x10 | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 40 1/2" |
| Footboard front legsPine 1x3 | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16 3/4" |
| Footboard side legsPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16 3/4" |
| Side railsPine 1x6 | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 75" |
| CleatsPine 1x2 | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 75" |
| Slats (optional, if not using a box spring)Pine 1x3 | 15 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 39" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
2 boards
9 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Mark a gentle curved top on one of the 1x8 headboard rails and cut it out carefully with a jigsaw. Sand the curved edge smooth, working from coarse to fine sandpaper. Lay the two headboard rails (one curved, one straight) across the 1x3 front legs, leaving 3/4" clear on the outside of each leg — using the 1x2 side-leg board as a spacing guide helps here. Nail on with 1-1/4" nails and glue, or 1-1/4" screws and glue.
Attach the 1x2 side legs to the sides of the headboard assembly with 2" nails and glue.
Nail each top trim piece on separately with 2" finish nails and glue.
Build the footboard using the exact same method as the headboard — the only difference is the panel is a single 1x10 instead of two 1x8s.
Attach the cleats to the side rails with 1-1/4" screws and glue. Position them at the bottom of the rail if you're using a box spring, or 1-1/2" from the top if you're going with slats and no box spring. Attach the side rails to the headboard and footboard with 2" screws — metal bed rail brackets are a good alternative if you want the frame to knock down for moving.
If you're not using a box spring, lay the fifteen slats across the cleats, spaced about 2" apart, and screw each one down with 1-1/4" screws — don't glue them, so they can be removed if needed.
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