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The tall sibling in the "Tryde" table family — same breadboard-end top and pocket-hole joinery as the Tryed Side Table, stretched out to console-table length and height with a proper apron-and-leg base plus a floating center stretcher for rigidity. Build the two leg assemblies as their own sub-units first (short aprons sandwiched between posts), then join them with the long side aprons before the top ever comes into play — trying to square up all four legs at once, freehand, is how a long narrow table ends up racked.
The center stretcher sits loose inside the leg assembly and is added last, after the base is already square — forcing it in earlier can spread the legs out of true. A right-angle drill attachment on your driver makes the tight-clearance screws under the apron much easier to reach; a standard drill/driver works too, just at a more awkward angle.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 4x4 post, 10 ftLegs. | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x6, 12 ftCan be cut into a 4 ft and 8 ft piece for easier transport. | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 10 ft | 2 each |
| 2-1/2" pocket hole screwsAbout 50 per table. | 1 box |
| 120 grit sandpaper | 1 pack |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Wood stain and top coat | 1 each |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Tabletop breadboard endsPine 2x4Measure and cut to fit as you build for a perfect match. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Tabletop boardsPine 2x6 | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 41" |
| Legs4x4 post | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| End aprons and stretcher supportsPine 2x44 form the leg sets' end aprons; 2 support the lower stretcher. | 6 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
| Side apronsPine 2x4 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 38" |
| StretcherPine 2x4 | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 38 1/2" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
2 boards
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the tabletop boards and drill a 1-1/2" pocket hole on each end. On two of the 2x6 boards, also drill 1-1/2" pocket holes along one long edge. Attach all three boards together with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.
Measure and cut the 2x4 breadboard ends, then attach the joined 2x6 center panel to them with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of four of the short 2x4 pieces, plus pocket holes facing upward on two of them for attaching the tabletop later. Drill pocket holes on each end of the remaining two short pieces for the lower stretcher supports. Build two leg sets by attaching the short 2x4 pieces between pairs of posts with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the side aprons, plus pocket holes facing upward for attaching the tabletop. Attach the two leg assemblies together with the side aprons using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Attach the base to the underside of the tabletop through the predrilled apron pocket holes with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Build the stretcher with 2-1/2" screws, predrilling so the screw heads sit below the surface of the wood.
Place the stretcher inside the leg assembly and attach with a couple of 2-1/2" screws. Sand everything smooth and finish with stain and top coat.
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