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This is a compound-angle build — the truss legs, their center braces, and the top angle brace are all cut at small, non-parallel bevels rather than simple square or 45° cuts. Mark every angled piece with a speed square before cutting, and label which face is which; on small double angles like these it's very easy to lose track of which way a cut is supposed to lean, and a mislabeled piece won't show the problem until you're trying to assemble a leg that doesn't sit flat.
Build the two truss-shaped end assemblies first and confirm they're identical mirror images of each other, then join them with the side supports before the top ever comes into play. The top itself goes together separately with pocket holes and drops onto the assembled base — build it flat on a bench rather than trying to square it up on top of an already-built base.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x3, 8 ftA 2x6 ripped in half also yields two 2x3s (2-1/2" x 1-1/2"). | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws | 1 box |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Truss legsPine 2x3Both ends cut at a 10° bevel (5° angle), parallel to each other, long point to short point. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 27" |
| Lower truss bracesPine 2x3Both ends cut at 5° off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 9 3/4" |
| Upper truss bracesPine 2x3Both ends cut at 5° off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 2 1/2" × 13" |
| Side supportsPine 2x2Both ends cut at 10° off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 26 1/4" |
| Tabletop boardsPine 2x4 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 31 1/2" |
| Top angle bracePine 1x2Angles cut in the final step to match the assembled base. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 24" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
With small, non-parallel double angles it's easy to lose track of which way each cut leans — mark every truss leg and brace clearly with a speed square before cutting on the miter saw, and keep the marked pieces organized as you go.
With the legs marked, attach the lower and upper truss braces to build two identical end truss assemblies. The top brace sits flush on top on the outside face, but not on the inside face, which is hidden under the seat. Build two that are mirror images of each other. If using a pocket hole jig, drill 1-1/2" pocket holes along the top inside edge of each end for attaching the top later.
Once both truss ends are built, join them together with the side supports.
Build the tabletop with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, then attach it to the assembled truss legs.
Cut the 1x2 angle brace pieces to match the angles of the assembled base, attach, sand the whole piece smooth, and finish.
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