Triangle Wedding Arch

On the two long legs, mark and cut the angles per the cut list: one end at 45°, the other end at 22-1/2° off square. The 22-1/2° cut is measured as an angle off a square (90°) cut — on a miter saw, simply dial the angle to 22-1/2° and cut directly.

Lay the two cut legs so their 45° peak cuts meet and match each other, exactly as the finished arch will stand. Trace the overlapping area onto BOTH boards with a pencil — this traced outline is your cutting guide for the notch on each piece.

Set the circular saw's cutting depth to 3/4" — half the board's thickness. Clamp each board to a stable surface and make a series of cuts about 1/4" apart across the whole traced overlap area.

Break the small waste pieces out by hand, then clean up the bottom of the notch with a chisel until it's flat and even. Repeat on the second board's overlap area.

Lap the two legs together at the peak and test the fit — the two boards should sit flush where they cross. This is a good point to apply finish before final assembly, since the lap joint is far easier to reach with a brush now than once it's fastened.

Join the legs with 1-1/4" screws for a permanent arch, or 1-1/2" bolts with washers and nuts if you want to disassemble and reuse the arch for future events.

Screw the four base feet to the bottom of each leg with 2-1/2" screws, crossing them perpendicular to the legs for a stable, self-supporting stance.

Stand the arch on real ground before the event — a lawn is never as flat as a garage floor — and plan on tent anchors or sandbags at the feet if the venue is windy.