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The bottom shelf is the one part that needs a genuine fitting step: it's notched around the legs with a jigsaw rather than built as a simple rectangle, so it drops into the base cleanly instead of needing the legs built around it. Dry-fit the notches before final nailing — a shelf cut a hair too tight will bind on a leg and refuse to seat flush.
The tabletop is 2x6 boards with 2x2 spacers between them rather than one continuous run of the same material, which is a genuine style call, not a structural necessity — a solid 2x4 down the center (as some versions of this build show) works too, but the split 2x2 spacing reads as more visually balanced. Build the tabletop as its own flat assembly first, then attach it down through the aprons and center support — that sequence keeps every top board's joint square and even before it's locked to the base.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 4x4, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 12 ft total2x3s work too if you can source them — actually slightly stronger. | 12 ft |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 3 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x6, 9-10 ft | 2 each |
| Plywood, 1/2", quarter sheet | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1" | 1 box |
| Caster wheels | 4 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 4 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| LegsPine | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Short apronsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 17" |
| Long apronsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 41" |
| Bottom shelf supports, shortPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Bottom shelf support, centerPine | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 21 1/2" |
| Bottom shelf supports, longPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 41" |
| Bottom shelf T-piece legsPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 8 1/2" |
| Bottom shelf T-piece crossPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17" |
| Bottom shelfPlywoodNotch around the legs with a jigsaw — dry-fit before final attachment. | 1 | 1/2" × 24" × 48" |
| Under-tabletop supportPine | 1 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 20" |
| Tabletop, main boardsPine | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 50" |
| Tabletop spacersPine | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 50" |
Buy 12 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
4 boards
1 board
Attach the aprons to the four legs. For 1x boards, use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. For 2x boards (if substituting 2x3s), use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.
Attach the bottom shelf supports, which will carry the plywood bottom shelf. Pocket hole screws work best here — use the 3/4" jig setting if you're screwing into 1x material. If you're using 3/4" plywood for the bottom shelf, you can skip the 2x2 supports entirely.
Build the T-shaped support pieces first, then attach them to the legs and bottom shelf frame.
Notch the corners of the bottom shelf with a jigsaw to fit around the legs — dry-fit before committing, since a shelf cut too tight will bind and refuse to seat flush. Attach to the bottom supports with finish nails and glue.
Instead of a solid 2x4 down the center, use two 2x2 spacers between the 2x6 boards for a more visually balanced look. Build the tabletop as its own flat assembly with 1-1/2" pocket holes, 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, and wood glue.
Attach the assembled top down through the aprons and the center under-tabletop support with 2-1/2" screws — pocket hole screws work fine here too, so there's no need to buy a special fastener just for this step.
Attach caster wheels to the bottom of the legs. Sand every surface and finish.
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3 boards
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →