NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
Unlike a bookshelf that leans its front legs against a wall, both sides of this ladder taper inward at the same 10° angle from bottom to top, and a 2x2 stretcher across the back ties the two side frames together so the whole piece stands entirely on its own. Start by cutting each side's outer leg trim at 68-1/2" with both ends at 10°, then cut the shorter inner trim pieces — bottom, between-shelf, and top — all at 10° on both ends, cut parallel to each other.
Nail the inner trim pieces to the outer leg trim with a 3/4" gap between each one, which works out to a bit over 1-1/2" at the very top — this gap spacing is what sets where each shelf sits, so get it consistent across both side frames before moving on. Build both side frames identically.
Fit the shelves into the gaps between the inner trim pieces on both frames and nail through the outer legs into the shelves. Since the frame tapers, the inside top pieces that cap each frame are cut to two different lengths — wider at 22-1/2" and narrower at 19-1/2" — mitered to match the 10° taper rather than square-cut. The 2x2 stretcher across the back and the corner blocks at the top corners are what make this genuinely freestanding rather than a leaning shelf that needs a wall to hold it upright — don't skip them even if the piece feels stable enough during dry-fitting.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x12, 8 ft | 3 each |
| 1x12, 4 ft | 1 each |
| 1x2, 8 ft | 9 each |
| 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" and 2" | 100 each |
| Wood glue | 5 oz |
| Primer and paint, or stain and poly | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Outer leg trim1x2, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 10° off square, parallel to each other. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 68 1/2" |
| Bottom trim1x2, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 10°, parallel. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 6" |
| Between-shelf trim1x2, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 10°, parallel. | 16 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/8" |
| Top trim1x2, 8 ftBoth ends cut at 10°, parallel. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 4 1/2" |
| Shelves1x12, 8 ft | 5 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 48" |
| Inside top trim, wide side1x2, 8 ftShort point to short point; both ends cut at 10°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Inside top trim, narrow side1x2, 8 ftShort point to short point; both ends cut at 10°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Top corner blocks2x2, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 10" |
| Back stretcher2x2, 8 ftShort point to short point measurement. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 43 1/4" |
Buy 13 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
5 boards
7 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the outer leg trim pieces at 10° on both ends. Cut the bottom, between-shelf, and top inner trim pieces, all at 10° on both ends, cut parallel to each other.
Nail the inner trim pieces to an outer leg trim piece, leaving a 3/4" gap between each one, which works out to a bit over 1-1/2" at the top. Build two identical side frames.
Fit the shelves into the gaps left between the inner trim pieces on both side frames. Nail through the outer legs into the shelves with glue.
Cut and fit the inside top trim pieces between the top two legs of each frame — the wide pieces on one frame, the narrow pieces on the other, mitered to match the taper. Nail in place with glue.
Predrill from the outside of the legs and attach the top corner blocks, keeping outside edges flush.
Attach the back stretcher between the two side frames to tie them together and make the piece freestanding.
Sand all surfaces and apply primer and paint, or stain and poly.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.