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This bed keeps the headboard and footboard as flat, simple frames rather than planked panels — a pair of 2x4 legs and horizontal boards, pocket-screwed together, with a single plywood sheet screwed to the back of the headboard for a smooth, painted-panel look instead of individual board joints. That plywood back is also what keeps a tall headboard frame from racking, doing the same job a plank panel does in this catalog's other bed frames, just with one part instead of many.
Build the headboard and footboard complete and prefinished — paint or stain them along with the siderails before final assembly, since the inside faces of a bed frame this simple are much easier to reach flat on a bench than after everything is screwed together in the bedroom.
The siderails attach directly to the headboard and footboard with pocket screws at a fixed 13-1/2" height (matching the footboard height), assembled in the room rather than the shop, since a queen frame this size is awkward to move once joined. Queen and full both want a center inner cleat — full and up can also add a center leg under it for real weight support, which matters more for a contract-grade or rental bed that will see less careful use than a personal one.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft or stud lengthHeadboard legs and footboard legs. | 3 each |
| 2x4, 10 ftHeadboard top/bottom and inner cleats. | 2 each |
| 2x6, 8 ft or stud lengthFootboard and siderails. | 3 each |
| 1/4" to 1/2" plywood, 61" x 40-3/4"Headboard back panel. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 10 ft (or 1x3, 10 ft)Bed slats. | 6 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 45 each |
| Screws, brad nails, or staples, 1-1/4" | 60 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Headboard legs2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 50" |
| Headboard top and bottom2x4, 10 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 56" |
| Footboard legs2x4, 8 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
| Footboard main board2x6, 8 ft or stud length | 1 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 56" |
| Headboard back panel1/4" to 1/2" plywood, 61" x 40-3/4" | 1 | 3/8" × 61" × 40 3/4" |
| Siderails2x6, 8 ft or stud length | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 80" |
| Inner cleats2x4, 10 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 80" |
| Bed slats1x4, 10 ft (or 1x3, 10 ft) | 12 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 60" |
Buy 22 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
6 boards
12 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill two 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the horizontal boards and attach to the legs to build the headboard and footboard frames.
Attach the plywood back panel to the headboard frame with screws, nails, or staples and glue.
Drill three 1-1/2" pocket holes on each end of the 2x6 siderails. Paint or stain the headboard, footboard, and siderails now, while they're easy to reach. In the room, attach the siderails to the headboard and footboard with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws, at a 13-1/2" attachment height matching the footboard.
Add the inner cleats along the siderails. A center cleat is recommended for queen and full size. For contract-grade use or extra strength, a center leg can be added under the center cleat.
Place the slats about 4" apart on the cleats and attach with the 1-1/4" fasteners.
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