Street Hockey Goal — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.

1 1/2" × 1 1/2" — 2x2

3 boards · 3.9 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 77% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 7 3/4" left over
51"36"
1. Cage top rail — 51"
2. Cage uprights — 36"
Board 2 · 10 3/4" left over
48"36"
1. Diagonal cross-brace — 48"
2. Cage uprights — 36"
Board 3 · 46 7/8" left over
48"
1. Diagonal cross-brace — 48"

3/4" × 3 1/2" — 1x4

1 board · 1.9 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 94% of the boards you buy used

Board 1 · 6 1/8" left over
52 1/2"18"18"
1. Base front rail — 52 1/2"
2. Base side rails — 18"
3. Base side rails — 18"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.

1 1/2" × 1 1/2" — 2x2

Board 1 · 7 3/4" left over

Board 2 · 10 3/4" left over

Board 3 · 46 7/8" left over

3/4" × 3 1/2" — 1x4

Board 1 · 6 1/8" left over