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Stacked Bookcase — board plan

What to buy, and which parts come off which board.

Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.

3/4" × 9"

3 boards · 14.9 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 97% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 2 1/2" left over

    1. Shelf — 34"
    2. Shelf — 34"
    3. Side — 12"
    4. Side — 12"

  2. Board 2 · 2 1/2" left over

    1. Shelf — 34"
    2. Shelf — 34"
    3. Side — 12"
    4. Side — 12"

  3. Board 3 · 2 1/2" left over

    1. Shelf — 34"
    2. Shelf — 34"
    3. Side — 12"
    4. Side — 12"

3/4" × 3"

1 board · 1.4 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 81% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 18 1/2" left over

    1. Long Base — 31"
    2. Long Base — 31"
    3. Short Base — 7"
    4. Short Base — 7"

3/4" × 2"

3 boards · 3.0 board feet (includes 15% for knots and defects) · 90% of each board consumed

  1. Board 1 · 5 3/8" left over

    1. Cleat — 34"
    2. Cleat — 34"
    3. Short Spacer — 7"
    4. Short Spacer — 7"
    5. Short Spacer — 7"

  2. Board 2 · 22 5/8" left over

    1. Cleat — 34"
    2. Long Spacer — 31"
    3. Short Spacer — 7"

  3. Board 3 · 1 5/8" left over

    1. Long Spacer — 31"
    2. Long Spacer — 31"
    3. Long Spacer — 31"

Cuts are listed longest-first, which is how they should be made: the awkward pieces get placed while there is still board to place them on. The layout assumes one end of each board is squared off (1") and that every cut costs 1/8" of kerf — the reason six 16″ parts do not fit on a 96″ board.