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This little bench looks casually mid-century, but the splay is doing precise work: the legs kick out at a 5° double bevel, which is what gives it that planted, stable stance instead of looking like a box on sticks. That double bevel is the whole skill here — it's the same cut as a simple stool leg, and a compound miter saw set to 5° makes it repeatable.
The honest warning from the source builder is real: once you've cut four legs with a 5° double bevel, it becomes genuinely confusing which end and which face is which. Mark the inside corners of every leg the moment you cut it, or you'll assemble a bench that leans the wrong way.
The aprons are also cut at 5° (ends not parallel) so they meet the splayed legs square. Everything joins with pocket holes or countersunk screws and glue. The top overhangs about the same on each side; mark the underside 1-1/2" in from the ends to locate it before you screw it down.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs. | 1 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftAprons and cross supports. | 2 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftStretchers — cut in half. | 1 each |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x12, 30"Top. | 1 each |
| Screws, 2" and 2-1/2"Or pocket hole screws. | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Wood filler and finish | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x2Ends parallel, cut at a 5° angle off square AND a 5° bevel (double bevel). | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 17 1/4" |
| End aprons (short)1x3Both ends 5° off square, not parallel, short point to short point. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 7" |
| End aprons (mid)1x3Both ends 5° off square, not parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 9 1/4" |
| Side aprons1x3Both ends 5° off square, not parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 24" |
| Stretchers1x2Approximate — cut the 1x2 in half. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 48" |
| Top1x12 | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 30" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the four legs at a 5° double bevel — the saw angled 5° off square and tilted 5° for the bevel. As soon as each leg is cut, mark its inside corner. With a 5° double bevel it's genuinely hard to tell which end and face is which once you start assembling, and mismarked legs splay the wrong way.
Mark the placement of the end aprons and predrill (pocket holes or countersunk screws and glue). Center the aprons on the legs as shown. Build both ends.
Attach the side aprons to the two end assemblies. They're cut at 5° off square with ends not parallel; the measurement given is short point to short point. This ties the base into a rigid frame.
Add the cross stretchers between the aprons. Doing this as its own step means you can lengthen the bench later by simply changing these — and it keeps the base square if you nudge the aprons in or out.
Mark the underside of the top 1-1/2" in from both ends to locate it, giving even overhangs. Attach with screws and glue (screw through the top if you're painting; from underneath if the top will show). Fill, sand, and finish.
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