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This is a small footprint version of the rustic X-console style: two 2x4 leg frames joined by stretchers, a 1x12 shelf, and a three-board 2x6 top. The X brace on the back is applied after the frame is built, not structural — it's what turns a plain leg frame into something with visual interest from across the room.
The X is two pieces, not one: a long diagonal cut with both ends parallel, and two shorter pieces angled from the same centerline to complete the pattern. Cut the long piece first and dry-fit it before cutting the two shorter pieces, since their length depends on exactly where the long piece lands. Decorative bolts through the leg-to-leg joints are a nice touch if you want exposed hardware as part of the look — the pocket holes underneath work just as well hidden.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x6, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 2x2, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 2x4, 8 ft | 2 each |
| Pine, 1x12, 24 in | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| LegsPine | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 28 1/2" |
| Front and back trimPine | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 24" |
| End trimPineCut to match the actual width of the 1x12 shelf boards. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| X brace, long diagonalPineBoth ends cut at 45°, ends ARE parallel — long point to short point measurement. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 31" |
| X brace, short diagonalsPineOne end cut at 45°, long-point measurement. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15 1/2" |
| Top boardsPine | 3 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 32" |
| ShelfPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 24" |
Buy 7 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
2 boards
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build two frames — front and back — from the legs and front/back trim. The lower trim piece attaches 5" up from the bottom of the leg.
Measure your actual 1x12 shelf board — it should be 11-1/4" wide, but cut the end trim to match whatever it actually measures. Attach the two frames together with the end trim pieces, hiding the pocket holes on the top and bottom edges. Decorative bolts can substitute for pocket screws here if you want exposed hardware.
Set your pocket hole jig for 3/4" material (finish any 1-1/2" setting holes first, since resetting the jig partway through is easy to forget to reset back). Drill two pocket holes on the ends of the shelf and three along its long edges. Attach the shelf flush to the top of the lower trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Dry-fit the long diagonal piece in the back of the console before gluing — its exact position determines the length of the two shorter pieces. Attach the long piece first with glue, then fit and glue the two shorter pieces to complete the X.
Join the three top boards edge to edge with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Attach the assembled top to the console from underneath with 2-1/2" screws through the 2x2s and 2x4s.
Sand everything and finish.
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