Slatted Outdoor Coffee Table

On the bottom face of each breadboard end, mark where the eight top supports land. The outer supports use a different gap than the middle ones and there's a 1-1/4" inset at each end — follow the plan's numbers, don't space them evenly by eye. Fasten with 1-1/4" screws and waterproof glue; screws are the right call here for strength.

Each leg is a 1x3 face with a 1x2 wrapping one edge, making an L that looks like solid stock from both show faces. Glue and screw them up, keeping the ends flush.

Fasten the legs to the top support assembly with 2" screws and glue. You don't need to drive through the top. If you want to beef the table up later, you can add screws down through the breadboard ends into the leg tops.

Fasten the side aprons, then the front and back aprons, around the perimeter to frame the top and stiffen the leg assembly. Keep the frame square as you go.

Space the eight top boards 1/2" apart. Flip the table and fasten up through the supports into the underside of each board so no screw holes show on top. Use glue and 1-1/4" screws. If you're skipping the bottom shelf, you're done — but the shelf adds real rigidity, so read on.

Fasten the shelf supports to the legs, then lay the alternating 1x2/1x3 shelf boards across them, fastening from underneath with 1-1/4" screws and glue. Wrap the shelf aprons around with 2" screws. This ties all four legs together low and stops the table racking.

Fill screw holes and gaps with exterior filler, then sand the whole table smooth — furring is rough, so budget time. Prime and paint, or stain and topcoat, with an exterior-rated product. This table lives outdoors; the finish is what buys it years.