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Step-by-step build — 6 steps. Also available as a print sheet.
Drill a 1-1/2" pocket hole on each end of the side stretchers — and go ahead and drill the bottom-stretcher holes now too, to save re-setting the jig. Attach the stretchers between legs with 2-1/2" pocket screws and glue, holes on the underside. Drill 3/4" pocket holes on the ends of the side aprons and attach them at the top.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the back apron, plus upward-facing 3/4" holes for grabbing the top later. Attach the back apron to the legs with those top holes facing up on the inside, and add the 2x2 bottom stretcher with 2-1/2" screws.
Glue and nail the 1x2 front trim to the underside edge of the tabletop, flush all around, then the side trim, wrapping the plywood edges. Sand the assembly flush and smooth.
Set the base upside down on the underside of the top and fasten through the upward-facing apron pocket holes with 1-1/4" screws. Check square as you go.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the long 1x3 drawer boards and join them to the short ones with 1-1/4" screws, pockets on the outside. Add the 1/4" plywood bottom with brads and glue; add a 1x2 divider now if you want a pen tray. Then fur out the base sides with a 1x3 spacer, nailed on with glue, so the slides come in to the drawer's width.
Mount the slides on the furred-out sides and fit the drawer into the desk. Cut the drawer face to fit and tack it on with a couple of 1-1/4" brads, avoiding where the hardware will go. Pull the drawer and secure the face with 1-1/4" screws from inside, then add the knobs. Sand and finish the whole desk.