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Nothing about this build is complicated — it's a box, sized to a 12" pie, with a lid that's hinged on with a length of twine rather than actual hardware. That's the one detail worth doing carefully: drill the twine holes so the lid pivots cleanly and doesn't bind, and leave enough slack that the lid can open past vertical without the twine snapping taut.
A clear acrylic top instead of a plywood one turns this from a carrier into a small display case — worth considering if the box is as much a gift presentation as it is transport.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Acrylic glass or plywood, 12" x 12" | 1 each |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" |
| 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 oz |
| Twine | 2 ft |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Front, back, and bottomPineCut the first three, then measure and cut the remaining pieces to fit exactly. | 3 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 10 1/2" |
| SidesPineMeasure and cut to fit. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 12" |
| LidAcrylic glass or plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 12" × 12" |
Buy 2 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut the first three box pieces to 10-1/2", then measure and cut the remaining pieces to fit exactly as you assemble — this keeps the box square even if your actual board width is slightly off from 3-1/2". Join with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
Drill a small hole through the back edge of the box and a matching hole through the back edge of the lid. Thread twine through both, tied with enough slack that the lid can swing open past vertical without the twine pulling taut and binding.
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