NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
The whole geometry of this stool rides on one small, easy-to-mix-up detail: the legs are cut with a 5° angle AND a 5° bevel on both ends at the same time — a true double compound cut, even though the angle itself is subtle. Stand the four legs up in their final position before cutting a single joint and mark the inside corner of each one. Every rung and rail in this build references those marks, and it's the step most likely to get skipped by someone eager to start cutting.
Build the two leg-and-rung frames as complete sub-assemblies first, then join them with the remaining rungs — the same sequence as a much larger table, just scaled down to stool height. Adding the additional rungs after the main frame is up is deliberately last, since they're bracing rather than primary structure, and gluing them (the plan is explicit — don't skip the glue here) is what keeps a stool this small from developing a wobble under someone standing on it.
The seat is either a piece of 1x12 cut square or a 12" plywood round, and it goes on from underneath — screw up through the top supports into the seat's underside, which hides every fastener from view on the one surface people actually look at while using the stool.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x2, 8 ft | 1 each |
| 1x2, 10 ft | 1 each |
| 1x12, 11-1/2" (or 12" plywood round, 3/4" thick)The seat. | 1 each |
| Self-tapping screws, 2-1/2" (for countersinking), or pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 20 each |
| Wood glue, wood filler, sandpaper, and finishing supplies | 1 set |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x2Ends cut at a 5° angle AND a 5° bevel simultaneously — mark each leg's inside corner before cutting. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 23 1/4" |
| Short rungs1x2Short point to short point, ends cut at a 5° angle, NOT parallel to each other. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 7" |
| Top supports, long1x2Short point to short point, ends at 5°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10" |
| Top supports, medium1x2Short point to short point, ends at 5°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 8 1/4" |
| Rungs, secondary1x2Short point to short point, ends at 5°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Rungs, lower1x2Short point to short point, ends at 5°, NOT parallel. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 8" |
| Seat1x12 or plywood roundCut to a square matching the actual width of your 1x12, or use a 12" plywood round instead. | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/2" × 11 1/2" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Stand the four legs up in their final position and mark the inside corner of each one before cutting anything else. Because the leg-end angle is only 5° and is a double bevel, it's genuinely easy to lose track of which corner is which — always remember the marked corners face the inside of the leg.
Build two identical leg frames, joining the short rungs and one pair of top supports to each pair of legs, referencing the marks from the first step.
Add the additional rungs to each leg frame. Don't forget the glue on these — they're bracing rather than primary structure, and the glue is what keeps a stool this size from developing a wobble under real weight.
Attach the remaining top supports to join the two leg frames into the complete stool base.
Attach the seat by screwing up through the top supports into its underside — this hides every screw hole from the surface people actually see and sit on.
Fill any exposed holes, sand thoroughly, and finish.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.