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A plain plywood-backed box, split down the middle by a pair of doors rather than one — that's the whole difference between this and a single-door play fridge, and it's purely a hardware and layout choice, not a harder build. Two narrower doors are actually easier to hang true than one wide one, since a shorter door is less prone to sagging or twisting on its hinges.
The shelves are spaced using the door stock itself as a spacer while nailing, which keeps the gaps consistent without measuring each one individually — a trick worth remembering for any small cabinet with repeated shelf spacing. Butt hinges mounted in the gap between door and cabinet keep the hardware out of sight, which matters more on a kid's toy than on real furniture since there's nothing to hide behind a face frame.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x12, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x10, 4 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 15 in | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x8, 6 ft | 1 each |
| Plywood or beadboard, 1/4", quarter sheet | 1 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4"Or 2" self-tapping screws as an alternative. | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Narrow-profile butt hinges | 2 pair |
| Magnetic door catches | 2 each |
| Cabinet knobs, kid-sized | 2 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 3 sheet |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 35 1/4" |
| Bottom shelfPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 15" |
| TopPine | 1 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 16 1/2" |
| Bottom footerPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Interior shelvesPine | 3 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 15" |
| Back panel1/4" plywood or beadboard | 1 | 1/4" × 16 1/2" × 36" |
| DoorsPineCut to fit the actual opening — width is the two door widths plus the 1/8" side gaps. | 2 | 3/4" × 7 1/4" × 32 3/4" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Measure up 1-1/2" from the bottom on the inside of each side panel and mark. Either drill 3/4" pocket holes on both ends of the bottom shelf, or predrill pilot holes for trim screws through the sides. Attach with screws and glue.
Attach the top with countersunk 2" trim screws, or 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. All outside edges stay flush.
Apply glue to the top and end edges of the footer. Position it at the bottom of the project and attach with 1-1/4" finish nails, countersunk screws, or pocket hole screws.
All shelves install flush to the back and can sit at any height you like. Here they're spaced 7-1/4" apart, using the door stock itself as a spacer while you nail — a fast way to get even gaps without measuring each one. Attach with glue and screws or finish nails.
Attach the back panel with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Attach the doors to the cabinet with narrow-profile butt hinges, mounted in the gap between the door and the cabinet so the hardware stays out of sight. Keep a 1/8" gap on the top, bottom, and center meeting edge of each door. Install a magnetic catch on each door to keep them shut, and add knobs last.
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