NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
The whole appeal of an open vanity is what it doesn't have: no doors to hang, no drawer boxes to square up, no face frame to fuss over. It's really a farmhouse table with a shorter, wider top — four 4x4 legs, an apron frame joined with pocket holes, and a plywood or board top with two holes cut for above-mount (vessel) sinks.
The one detail worth getting right is the top support layout: the front and back supports don't sit in the same position on the legs, because the back support needs to land flush with the back of the legs and the wall behind it — that's what lets you screw the vanity to the wall through the back apron for stability, since an open frame with two heavy sinks on top has more tip leverage than it looks like it should. Cut the sink holes with a jigsaw against the actual sink's template, not a generic circle — above-mount basins vary enough in their mounting lip that "close enough" leaves a gap or a sink that won't seat.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Above-mount (vessel) sink, approx. 18" x 15" | 2 each |
| Pine, 4x4, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 12 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3 scrapLess than 12" needed, for spacers. | 1 each |
| Plywood or project panel, 3/4", 60" x 18"Or two 1x10 boards, 60" long, edge-joined. | 1 each |
| Wood screws, 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Wood filler | 1 each |
| Exterior-grade paint and sealantBathroom humidity calls for a real sealed finish, not just paint. | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| LegsPine | 4 | 3 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 29 1/4" |
| SpacersPine | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 5 1/2" |
| Side apronsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 10" |
| Top side supportsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 15 1/4" |
| Front and back apronsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 49" |
| TopPlywood or project panelCut two sink holes to the basins' actual template before finishing. | 1 | 3/4" × 18" × 60" |
Buy 6 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Fasten a spacer block to each leg with glue and 2-1/2" screws. These build out the leg face so the aprons sit at the right depth for the top.
Fasten the side aprons to the spacers on both leg pairs, joining them into two end assemblies.
Fasten the top support to each end assembly. The front and back supports sit at different positions on the legs — the back one needs to sit flush with the back of the legs (and the wall behind it), both so the top registers correctly and so you have the option to screw the vanity to the wall through this apron for extra stability against two heavy sinks.
Fasten the front and back aprons between the two end assemblies, checking the whole frame for square before the glue sets.
Trace each sink's actual mounting template onto the top panel — don't guess a generic circle, above-mount basins vary in lip diameter and a hole cut to the wrong size either gaps or won't seat the sink. Cut with a jigsaw, then attach the top to the frame from underneath.
Sand everything, fill any visible screw holes, and finish with something rated for bathroom humidity — plain paint alone will fail near the sinks.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.