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This is the plainest possible Adirondack-style side table: a basic frame built from 1x3 boards, with 1x3 legs attached to the outside of the frame rather than square corner posts running through it. No pocket-hole jig is required at all — a countersink bit, screws, and glue handle every joint, which is what makes this the faster build of the two small Adirondack-companion tables in this catalog.
Build the basic frame first, in whichever board order is easiest for your countersink setup, then attach the legs to the outside of the frame as shown. Mark the tabletop boards and dry-fit them on top of the frame before drilling anything — the top overhangs the frame on purpose, and getting that overhang even on all sides matters more for how the finished table looks than any single joint underneath.
| Item | Qty |
|---|
| 1x3, 8 ft | 2 each |
| 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Exterior deck screws, 1-1/4" | 30 each |
| Exterior penetrating wood stain or paint | 1 set |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Frame short sides1x3, 8 ft | 2 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Frame long sides1x3, 8 ft | 3 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 15" |
| Legs1x3, 8 ft | 4 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 16 1/4" |
| Tabletop boards1x4, 8 ft | 5 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 18 1/2" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Build the basic table frame from the short and long frame sides, using a countersink bit with screws and glue.
Attach the legs to the outside of the frame.
Mark the tabletop boards and dry-fit on top of the frame for an even overhang on all sides. Predrill and attach.
Apply exterior stain or paint.
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