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About as simple as a project gets: four short 2x4 lengths stand on edge, held together by a couple of 1x2 backer strips, and a pumpkin silhouette gets traced and cut into the top edge with a jigsaw. There's no joinery to speak of — this is really a lesson in getting a freehand curve to look intentional rather than shaky.
Draw the pumpkin shape lightly in pencil first and step back to look at it before you commit to the jigsaw. A pumpkin reads as "right" mostly through symmetry — a lopsided outline is the one thing that gives away a rushed cut.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 2x4 scrap | 4 ft |
| Pine, 1x2 scrap | 2 ft |
| Pine, 2x2 scrap | 1.5 ft |
| Wood screws, 2" | 8 each |
| Wood glue | 1 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 1 sheet |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Face boardsPine | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 12" |
| Center backerPine | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 14 1/2" |
| Side backersPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Lay the four 2x4 face boards side by side, edge to edge, as if they were one wide panel. Flip the assembly and place the backer strips across the back.
Attach the backers to the back of the face boards with 2" screws and glue (1-1/4" or longer brad nails also work). This is what turns four loose boards into one rigid panel.
Trace a pumpkin outline across the top edge of the assembled panel, keeping it roughly symmetrical — step back and eyeball it before cutting, since a lopsided outline is what makes a freehand shape look rushed.
Cut carefully with the jigsaw, then sand every cut edge smooth.
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