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This table's base is two real sawhorses — angled 2x6 legs splayed for stability — rather than a trestle or pedestal, with the tabletop simply laid across them and screwed down from underneath. Build each sawhorse leg set with angled bevel cuts, attaching the legs to the base supports with pocket holes and glue, then repeat for the second set.
The angled stretchers between each sawhorse's legs come next, followed by a straight center stretcher spanning between the two angled leg sets, centered carefully since it's what keeps the whole base rigid lengthwise. Lay the tabletop boards out flat before attaching the sawhorses to them — screwing the base to an already-fussy, unaligned set of boards is much harder than aligning the boards first and dropping the base on top.
The cross supports underneath use two different bevel angles — 40° and 50° — though the plan offers a genuine fallback if your saw doesn't cut a 50° bevel: use 45° on both cuts instead and simply adjust the cross support's position on the stretcher to compensate. An optional 2x4 frame around the outside edge of the tabletop, added last, gives the whole piece a more finished, framed look.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x6, 8 ft | 9 each |
| 2x4, 8 ft | 7 each |
| 2x4, 8 ft (optional table frame) | 3 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 60 each |
| Self-tapping screws, 2-1/2" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 5 oz |
| Primer and paint, or exterior stain | 1 set |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Sawhorse legs2x6, 8 ftLong point to short point, both ends cut 10° bevel. | 8 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 27 3/8" |
| Angled stretchers2x4, 8 ftLong point to long point, both ends cut 45° bevel, ends not parallel. | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 39 1/2" |
| Base supports, short2x6, 8 ftLong point to long point, both ends cut 10° off square, ends not parallel. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 7 7/8" |
| Base supports, straight2x6, 8 ft | 2 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 26" |
| Tabletop boards2x6, 8 ft | 4 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 88" |
| Cross supports2x4, 8 ftBoth ends beveled, one at 40° and one at 50° (or both at 45° as a fallback). | 5 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 34" |
| Optional table frame2x4, 8 ft (optional table frame)Cut to fit around the tabletop. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 88" |
Buy 16 boards at 8 ft.
8 boards
8 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach the legs to the base supports with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the remaining legs to complete each base support. Build two sawhorse sets.
Attach the angled stretchers between the legs of each sawhorse, using countersunk screws or pocket holes.
Attach the straight stretcher between the angled leg sets, centering it carefully. Use countersunk screws or pocket holes.
Lay the tabletop boards out flat. Attach the sawhorses to the underside with 2-1/2" screws.
Add the middle base support with screws and glue.
Attach the cross supports underneath, beveled 40° and 50° (or both at 45° with position adjusted if your saw can't do 50°).
Cut and attach a 2x4 frame around the outside edge of the tabletop for a finished look.
Sand all surfaces and apply primer and paint, or exterior stain.
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