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The Rustic X family (the console and desk are elsewhere in this catalog) gets its living-room anchor here: a low, heavy-looking coffee table with a five-plank 2x6 top, a full 1x12 bottom shelf for the blanket basket, and the signature X braces on each end.
Unlike the desk's scribe-in-place Xs, this plan cuts the X geometry to numbers: the full diagonal at 60° both ends (parallel), and the four half-pieces with one end at 60° and the other at 30°, NOT parallel but cut in the same direction. Read that cut-list line twice and mark the first piece against the saw before committing the batch. The source then lowers the stakes exactly the right amount: the Xs are 'mostly decorative, so don't stress' — good glue and screws, and a hairline gap at a tip is character.
The structural sentence hiding in step 2: this plan is sized for 1x12s measuring a true 11-1/4" — MEASURE YOURS, double it, and cut the side trim to fit, because the bottom shelf is two 1x12s edge-joined and the frame must wrap their actual combined width. Mill variance strikes again; the tape is the truth.
Pocket-hole discipline for visible pieces: top pocket holes hidden on top (under the tabletop), bottom holes facing the floor. And the top builds as its own panel on a flat surface — 1-1/2" holes, 2-1/2" screws — then lands on the base complete.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ft or stud lengthLegs and end trim. | 2 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftSide trim and the X braces. | 4 each |
| 1x12, 8 ftThe bottom shelf — measure its true width; the frame is cut to it. | 1 each |
| 2x6, stud lengthThe plank top. | 5 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 50 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 2-1/2" | 30 each |
| Wood glue | 8 oz |
| Stain and finish | 1 qt |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Side trim2x2Cut to fit your 1x12s' doubled width — see the description. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 41" |
| End trim2x4 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Bottom shelf1x12Edge-joined pair. | 2 | 3/4" × 11 1/4" × 41" |
| X full diagonals2x2Both ends 60° off square, long point to short point, ends PARALLEL. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| X half pieces2x2One end 60°, other end 30°, NOT parallel, cut in the SAME direction. Mark the first against the saw before batching. | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 11 1/4" |
| Top planks2x6 | 5 | 1 1/2" × 5 1/2" × 52" |
Buy 11 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
2 boards
3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Assemble each end: two legs with the 2x4 end trim top and bottom, pocket holes hidden per the doctrine — top joints' holes facing up (the tabletop covers them), bottom joints' holes facing down.
Measure your actual 1x12 width, double it, and cut the 2x2 side trim to wrap that number — the plan assumes a true 11-1/4" and your mill may not. Connect the two end frames with the four side rails, pocket holes hidden as before.
Edge-join the two 1x12s with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" screws down the center seam, then drill 3/4" holes around the outside edges and screw the shelf into the frame. The shelf panel is also the base's anti-rack diaphragm — attach all four edges.
Cut the full diagonal (60°/60°, parallel) and the four half-pieces (60°/30°, not parallel, same direction) and fit an X into each end frame — full diagonal first, halves meeting it at the center.
Then take the source's own pressure release: these are mostly decorative. Good glue, a screw or brad where it lands, and any whisper of gap disappears under stain.
On a flat, level surface, edge-join the five 2x6 planks with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" screws, clamping each seam flush. Center the base upside down on the inverted top and screw through the end trim into the planks.
Sand hard — knock the seams flat, ease every edge shins can find — then stain. Books, mugs, and feet arrive immediately; that's what it's for.
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