Furniture

Rustic Slide In End Table

I created this little table to keep things close by without taking up the space of another table.

Difficulty: Easy
Time: 3.3–6.3 hours
Cost: $$

About this build

I created this little table to keep things close by without taking up the space of another table. It slides right under the couch/sofa and takes up very little space. I've seen variations using metal legs, but wanted an inexpensive option that did not require the help of my husband.

Tools

Essential

Brad Nailer
Drill / Driver
Miter Saw
Pocket Hole Jig
Random Orbit Sander

Optional / nice to have

Bar / Pipe Clamps

Materials

Item	Qty
Board, 2x2 96"	2 board
Board, 1x8 48"	1 board
4" Corner Braces	4 each
2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws	12 each
1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws	10 each

Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.

Cut list

Part	Qty	T × W × L
Base Cross Pieces	4	1" × 1" × 12"
Vertical Leg Pieces	2	1" × 1" × 30"
Base Top Side Pieces	2	1" × 1" × 17"
Base Bottom Side Pieces	2	1" × 1" × 20"
Top Pieces	2	3/4" × 7" × 19"

What to buy

Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.

1" × 1"

2 boards

30"30"20"12"
20"17"17"12"12"12"

3/4" × 7"

1 board

19"19"

Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →

Start building →

Instructions

1Drill Pocket Holes for Base
Drill (1) 1 1/2" pocket hole in both ends of each 12" 2x2. Drill (1) 1 1/2" pocket hole in one end of the 17" and 20" 2x2 pieces.
2Create Frames for Base
- With wood glue and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws- attach (1) 12" piece in between your (2) 17" pieces- on the side without pocket holes.
- Attach another 12" piece in between your 20" pieces in the same way- on the ends of the 20" pieces without pocket holes. You should have (2) square "U" shaped pieces.
- Set those aside.
3Continue with Base
- Now, take your (2) 30" pieces and another 12" piece.
- Attach the 12" piece horizontally in between (2) vertical 30" pieces to create an "H" with the bottom of the 12" piece 6" from one end on both 30" pieces. Use wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
4Base Assembly
- Now, take the "H" piece and your bigger "U" piece-with the 20" pieces.
- Lay the "U" on your work table with the pocket holes facing up and the open side facing the edge of your work table. This is a little tricky, but I wanted to hide as many pocket holes as possible. Clamps or an extra set of hands really help. With the short side of the "H" pointing upwards- match the ends up with the pocket holes on the "U" piece. I used a right angle clamp on one side and a bar clamp on the other.
- Attach using wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. Unclamp and flip over. You have just created the base of your table :)
5Top Frame Support
Now, take your other "U" piece and attach at the long ends of your "H" piece to create the support for your top. Use wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
6Final base support
Finally, add your remaining 12" piece to complete the base. Connect using wood glue and 2 1/2" screws. They go on the other end of the base top- connecting the ends of the "H". You can sand and paint or stain your base now.
7Build Table Top
- Take your (2) 1x8s @ 19 1/2".
- Drill 3/4" Pocket Holes along the long ends on one side of each board.
- Join together lengthwise using wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to create a 19 1/2" x 15" table top.
- Sand and finish as desired.
8Attach Top to Base
When your top and base are dry, attach the top to the base using wood glue and 1 1/4" brad nails.
9Attach Corner Braces
Spray paint your corner braces if desired, then attach them where your vertical "H" pieces connect to the horizontal pieces on the top and bottom- and you're done!
10Finished!
Apply any touch ups or final finish and enjoy your new table!