Rustic Media Console Cabinet

Attach the two cabinet sides to the bottom shelf with glue and 2" nails, driving through the sides into the end edges of the shelf. Line up the bottom edges flush. This sets the width of the whole cabinet, so get it square from the start.

Attach the two drawer guides with 1-1/4" nails and glue — they need to sit 1" wide by 3/4" tall to carry the drawer. Then add the middle shelf 7-1/4" up from the bottom of the cabinet (measured to the bottom of the shelf), using 2" nails and glue.

Nail the cabinet top in place, driving through the top into the top edges of the sides with glue and 2" nails. This is the moment to check the whole box for square — measure the diagonals and rack it into line before anything else goes on, because every trim piece from here references these edges.

Attach the front and back top trim pieces with glue and 2" nails, keeping the top and outside edges flush, securing into both the cabinet top and the side trim pieces. This frames the top and hides the end grain of the sides.

Add the 1x2 leg sides first, keeping front and back edges flush, with 1-1/4" nails and glue. Then add the 1x3 leg fronts and backs, outside edges flush with the sides, and nail the fronts into the shelves, the sides, and the leg sides. This wrap is what actually locks the cabinet together — it's structural, not just trim.

Cut a decorative profile into the footer pieces with a jigsaw — use your own design, then use the first cut piece as a template for the others so they match. Nail the footer pieces in place. This is the detail that makes the console look intentional rather than boxy.

Attach the beadboard back panel, then the front middle shelf trim with its top edge flush to the middle shelf. Build the drawer from the 1x6 and 1x12 parts and fit it on the guides. Add the adjustable shelf on shelf-pin brackets so you can set component height later.

Fill nail holes, sand, and finish rustic — a wiping stain or a distressed paint suits this design better than a glossy clear coat.