NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
The honest structure here is a 1x2 box — two ladder-like sides joined front to back, with notched shelf supports let into the sides at even intervals. Cedar fence pickets are cladding, not structure: they cover the back, trim the front edges, and finish the top, giving the whole thing a weathered, reclaimed look while the actual load-bearing frame is straight, square dimensional lumber underneath.
That split matters for sequencing. Build and square the 1x2 carcass completely first, then measure your own bookcase for the picket pieces rather than trusting the source dimensions — fence pickets vary board to board, and the plan tells you outright to wait and cut them to fit as you go. Notch the shelf supports so their flat face is up; that's what you nail the shelves to, and it's easy to install one upside down if you're not paying attention.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Pine, 1x2, 8 ftThe structural sides, top, and shelf supports. | 5 each |
| Cedar fence picketBack, front trim, and shelf edging. Buy an extra one or two — boards vary and you're cutting to fit as you go. | 11 each |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Finish nails | 1 lb |
| Sandpaper, assorted grits | 1 pack |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Side railsPineTwo per side; these form the vertical ladder frame. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 60" |
| Side rungsPine | 10 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 9 1/2" |
| Front/back cross bracesPineJoin the two side ladders into one carcass. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 13 1/2" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
5 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Using glue and 1-1/2" nails, build each side as a rectangle from two 60" rails and two 9-1/2" rungs. Check for square before the glue sets — these are the two long faces of the bookcase, and any twist here shows up in every shelf.
Connect the two side ladders with four 13-1/2" cross braces at the front and back, using glue and nails. This gives you a full 3D box frame — the skeleton the shelves and cladding attach to.
Measure and mark both sides at 15", 30", and 45" up from the bottom. Glue and nail 9-1/2" 1x2 pieces at each mark, flat side facing up — that flat face is what the shelf boards land on, so don't install one rotated the wrong way.
Measure the actual width of your assembled bookcase — don't trust a plan dimension over your own carcass — and cut two fence picket pieces to fit. Attach with glue and nails.
Measure the height of the back opening and cut three picket slats to fit. Expect a little overlap where they meet the sides — fit is more important than an exact source measurement, since picket width varies board to board.
Measure your actual shelf openings — the plan's builder got 16-1/2", yours may differ — and cut eight picket pieces to that length. Trace a scrap 1x2's outline onto each end and notch it out so the shelf drops down over the supports flush. Glue and nail the shelves to the supports, then run a pass on the table saw to trim any un-notched edge that's fighting the fit.
Measure your front opening width — expect around 2-1/8" per side, but confirm on your own carcass — and rip two trim pieces from one picket board on the table saw; the leftover 1" strip becomes the inner shelf trim. Attach the side trim with glue and nails, then the middle shelf trim using the thinner ripped scrap, saving the full-width trim for the top and bottom.
Sand every rough-sawn face and edge — fence pickets come off the mill rougher than surfaced lumber, so budget real time here. Ease any sharp picket edges before this piece goes anywhere near a bedroom.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.