Rustic Double-X Bench

Because the 5° double bevels are so slight, mark each outside leg with its bevel direction before you cut — draw the angle on the actual board so you can't cut it backwards. Once the outside legs are cut, join them to their aprons and stretchers.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons now; you'll use them to attach the top at the end, and it's far easier to drill them on a loose part than up under an assembled bench.

The center legs use single bevels rather than double, but the assembly is the same as the outside sets. Drill the upward-facing pocket holes in its apron too.

Connect the leg sets with the side aprons. The straight (square) end of each side apron attaches to the center legs — mind this when you drill, so the pocket holes end up hidden on the inside face rather than showing on the outside. This orientation matters more than it sounds; a visible pocket hole on the end of a bench is the first thing anyone notices.

Mark the cross supports in place with a square or straight edge and cut them with a circular saw or jigsaw. Fitting-in-place beats measuring here — the exact length of an X arm depends on how your legs actually landed, not the theoretical number.

Attach the remaining cross supports, offset from the first set so you can fasten them at the ends where the first pair crosses. Offsetting is what lets both arms of the X actually attach instead of colliding at the center.

Build the top first: join the two 1x6s edge to edge with a row of 3/4" pocket holes down the center seam and 1-1/4" pocket screws. Then set the top on the base and drive 1-1/4" pocket screws up through the aprons' upward-facing pocket holes into the underside of the top. Sand everything, easing every edge people will sit and slide on.