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This is a round side/accent table built on an X-base: four 2x2 legs that splay outward, braced by a crossed X-stretcher at the top and another at the bottom. It's a small, elegant piece, and the whole character comes from the legs leaning out rather than standing straight, which is set by a handful of 5° bevel cuts.
The X-stretchers are built like a lap-less half-lap: a long 2x2 run through the center with two shorter pieces screwed to each side, all beveled at 5° so the assembly tapers downward and the legs can lean. Build the top X first, mark its center carefully (13-7/8" from the outsides of the long board), and join it. Attach the legs so they lean outward, then build the bottom X the same way and tie the legs at the 6" mark from their ends.
The aprons under the top are the part the source builder found trickiest, and the key insight is counterintuitive: the aprons stay perpendicular to the ground, NOT parallel to the leaning legs. Once you accept that the apron doesn't follow the leg line, they go on cleanly — line up the inside corners and either nail (a brad nailer is very handy here) or predrill and screw them to the top X. The top is a store-bought 36" round or a plywood/MDF circle you cut yourself. Pocket screws or 3" screws throughout.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Round tabletop 36 in, or 3/4 in MDF/plywood for a 36 in circle | 1 each |
| 2x2, 8 ftLegs and both X-stretchers. | 3 each |
| 1x4, 8 ftAprons. | 1 each |
| Wood screws, 3 in, or pocket screws 2 in | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 1 bottle |
| Finish | 1 quart |
Overall cost: $$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Top X short arms2x2One end cut at 5° off square, to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 13 7/8" |
| Top X long member2x2Both ends cut at 5° off square, long point to long point. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 29 3/16" |
| Legs2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 29 1/8" |
| Bottom X short arms2x2One end cut at 5° off square, to long point. | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Bottom X long member2x2Both ends cut at 5° off square, long point to long point. | 1 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 33" |
| Aprons1x4Both ends cut at 45°, perpendicular to each other. | 4 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 20 1/2" |
Buy 4 boards at 8 ft.
3 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut all the boards as directed, and lay them out so the bevel cuts all taper downward. Mark the center of the long board (13-7/8" from the outsides), then screw the two short arms to the long board. Pocket screws are ideal; without a jig, drive screws at an angle to join the shorter boards to the long one.
Attach the four legs to the top X so that each leg leans outward. The 5° bevels on the X are what let the legs splay — check that all four lean the same amount so the base is symmetric.
Build the bottom X exactly as you built the top X. Mark all four legs 6" from their ends, then attach the bottom X to the legs at those marks. The lower stretcher braces the splayed legs and keeps the base rigid.
This is the part that trips people up. Line up the inside corners of the aprons and attach them to the legs and top X — glue and nail (a brad nailer helps a lot here) or predrill and screw them to the top X. The key: the aprons stay perpendicular to the ground, they do NOT follow the line of the leaning legs. Accept that and they go on cleanly.
Center the round top on the base and attach it — through the aprons or the top X from underneath. If you cut your own top from MDF or plywood, cut the 36" circle with a jigsaw and sand the edge smooth first. Sand the base and finish.
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