NotchLoading plan…
Loading plan…
This is a satisfying little table with a modern, chunky look — a solid round top glued up from dimensional lumber sitting on an X-shaped base of interlocking legs. It comes in two sizes: a shorter, smaller version from 2x4s and a taller, wider one from 2x6s. The method is identical, only the numbers change.
The two things that make it work are stock selection and the base joint. Pick soft, yellow-toned pine with minimal knots, cracks, and warp — a warped board fights you at glue-up and a knot lands right where you want to drive a screw. The base is two leg pairs that lock together at a half-lap-style notch and then get screwed at an angle, top and bottom; toe-screwing at an angle is what keeps the base from splitting and pulls it tight.
The round top is glued up flat with pocket holes placed carefully so they end up outside the circle you'll cut — plan the pocket-hole positions against your circle line before you drill. Then mark the circle, cut it with a jigsaw, and sand the edge fair. Add leveling feet so it doesn't rock on an uneven floor.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 2x4, 8 ftFor the 2x4 version. Choose yellow-toned boards with minimal knots, cracks, and warp. Use a 2x6 @ 12 ft for the larger version instead. | 1 each |
| 2x2, 24"Must be a true 1-1/2" x 1-1/2". Base cross piece. | 1 each |
| Self-tapping trim screws, 2" | 1 box |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Leveling feet | 4 each |
| Finish | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs2x42x6 version: 4 @ 2x6 @ 18-1/2". | 4 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 16 1/2" |
| Base cross pieces2x2Long-point measurement, one end cut at 45°. 2x6 version: 2 @ 10". | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 9" |
| Tabletop boards2x4Glued up then cut round. 2x6 version: 3 @ 2x6 @ 16-1/2". | 3 | 1 1/2" × 3 1/2" × 10 1/2" |
Buy 3 boards at 8 ft.
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Attach one 2x2 to two of the legs with the 2" trim screws — four screws total, two per leg. Be careful not to split the 2x2. Make sure the 2x2's long point faces outward and is flush to the top.
Repeat for the second leg set, but orient its 2x2 so it interlocks with the first set's cross piece — the two halves have to nest together into the X.
Set the two halves together and lock them in, then fasten at the top and bottom with 2" trim screws driven at an angle. To toe-screw: start the screw straight, and once it's about 1/2" in, tip it to the angle and drive it home. This pulls the base tight without splitting it.
Cut the tabletop boards and lay them out. Mark your circle, and place the pocket holes carefully so they'll fall outside the circle and won't show once cut. Drill 1-1/2" pocket holes and join the boards with 2-1/2" pocket screws and glue.
Once the glue-up is solid, cut the circle with a jigsaw and sand the edge fair.
Attach the base to the underside of the top with screws driven at an angle near the outer edges. Add leveling feet to the bottom of the base so the table doesn't rock, then finish.
No reviews yet
Sign in to review this plan or share your build.
No reviews yet. Be the first to build this.