Rolling Shop Cart / Outfeed Table

Measure from the floor to the top of your table saw's table.

Cart height = saw height − plywood top thickness (3/4") − caster height − 1/8".

That 1/8" is deliberate: the cart top sits just *below* the saw table, so a board sliding off the saw glides onto the cart instead of catching on its edge. A cart even 1/16" too tall will snag every single board and you'll hate it.

Adjust the side height in the cut list to whatever your arithmetic gives you.

Circular saw and straight-edge to rough size, then trim to final on the table saw.

Don't try to muscle full 4x8 sheets over the table saw solo — that's how sheets get away from you.

Pocket-hole the shelves to the sides, then add the back. Glue and screw everything.

The back is structural — it's what keeps the cart from folding into a parallelogram when you shove it across a shop floor. Don't skip it or substitute thin ply.

Screw the top down from underneath through the shelves, or pocket-hole from the inside. Countersink anything that comes through the top surface.

Nothing may sit proud of the top. A screw head 1/32" proud will gouge the underside of every board you slide across it.

Four locking swivel casters, one at each corner, bolted (not just screwed) through the bottom shelf.

All four lock. Two locking casters means the cart still pivots — usually right when you're pushing a heavy board through the saw.

Roll it up behind the saw. Lay a straight-edge from the saw table across the cart top.

The cart should be a hair low. If it's high, you have a problem — take it apart or shim the saw. If it's low by more than 1/4", shim the casters.

Then seal the top, load the shelves, and enjoy never chasing a falling board off the back of the saw again.