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This copies the wooden high chair every restaurant used to keep by the door — small, stackable-looking, and stable. It's built almost entirely from 1x2s, with a 1x10 (or three glued 1x4s) for the seat and a 1x4 seat back. The stability comes from a gentle 5° splay on the legs, which widens the base at the floor.
The cut list is precise about the 5° cuts, and reading it carefully is the whole job: the legs are cut 5° at both ends parallel to each other, while the side rails are cut 5° at both ends NOT parallel (measured long-point to long-point), and a couple of pieces are beveled rather than mitered. Set your saw to 5° and cut each category of piece together so they match; mixing up parallel and non-parallel ends is the way to get a chair that rocks.
All the joinery is pocket holes with 1-1/4" screws, two per joint end, glued and clamped. Build the two side assemblies first and make them identical. Expect to fill the pocket holes — the source needed three applications of filler to get them flush before paint. And because it's a high chair, it is not finished until it has a sturdy center strap and a safety belt; the wood holds the child up, the restraint keeps them safe.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 1x2 board, 8 ftLegs, rails, supports, front. | 3 each |
| 1x4 board, 15"Seat back. | 1 each |
| 1x10 board, 15"Seat. Or glue up three 1x4s. | 1 each |
| Pocket-hole screws, 1-1/4" | 40 each |
| Wood glue | 3 oz |
| Wood fillerExpect three applications to fill the pocket holes flush. | 4 oz |
| Primer, paint, and topcoat | 12 oz |
| Safety strap and beltRequired — a high chair needs a center strap and a restraint. | 1 each |
Overall cost: $. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Legs1x2Both ends 5° parallel to each other. | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 26 3/16" |
| Bottom side rails1x25° ends NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15" |
| Middle side rails1x25° ends NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 11 3/4" |
| Top side rails1x25° ends NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 10 11/16" |
| Bottom supports1x25° ends NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 16" |
| Seat back1x45° ends NOT parallel, long point to long point. | 1 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 12 9/16" |
| Front1x2Ends beveled 5°, NOT parallel, short point to short point. | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 12" |
| Seat1x10Ends beveled 5°, NOT parallel, short point to short point. | 1 | 3/4" × 9 1/4" × 13" |
Buy 5 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
1 board
3 boards
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Cut all the 5° pieces, keeping straight which ends are parallel and which aren't. Drill two pocket holes in each end of the horizontal rails. Mark the leg positions, clamp, glue, and screw with 1-1/4" pocket screws. Build both sides and make them identical.
Drill two pocket holes in each end of the bottom supports. Mark the sides 3-1/2" up, then glue, clamp, and screw the supports to the sides, centering them on the width. This is the trickier joint — take your time squaring it.
Set the beveled seat in place and fasten it, then drill pocket holes in the seat back and attach it with glue and 1-1/4" pocket screws. Check the back angle feels right.
Drill pocket holes on both ends of the front piece and attach it to the tops of the front legs with glue and 1-1/4" pocket screws. This closes the seat box and stiffens the frame.
Fill the pocket holes — plan on three applications to get them flush — then sand thoroughly with 120 grit. Prime, paint, and add a sprayed topcoat. Finally, fit a sturdy center strap and a safety belt. It is not a usable high chair until it can restrain the child.
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