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This is a fairly plain plywood box elevated by a handful of finishing details: a proper applied face frame instead of raw plywood edges, moulding wrapped around the sides for visual interest, and turned bun feet in place of the box just sitting on the floor. Each of these is optional in the sense that the cabinet works without them, but together they're what separate a "refined" cabinet from a plain storage box — skip all of them and you still have a functional printer stand, just a plainer one.
The drawer below gets the same treatment as any Euro-slide drawer in this catalog: build it to your actual opening and your actual slide's clearance spec, not the plan's stated numbers, and consider attaching the handle before the drawer goes into the cabinet — much easier to drill a handle hole on a drawer face sitting flat on the bench than reaching into an installed drawer.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| Hardwood plywood, 3/4", 4x8 sheet | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x2, 10 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x3, 27 in | 1 each |
| Plywood, 1/4", 24" x 48" | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x4, 8 ft | 1 each |
| Pine, 1x6, 27 inDrawer face. | 1 each |
| Bun feet | 4 each |
| Drawer slides | 1 pair |
| Drawer handle | 1 each |
| Decorative moulding | 10 ft |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Brad nails, 1-1/4" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 4 oz |
| Sandpaper, assorted grit | 4 sheet |
Overall cost: $$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| SidesHardwood plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 20" × 20 3/4" |
| ShelvesHardwood plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 20" × 28 1/2" |
| Face frame side trimPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 20 3/4" |
| Face frame top trimPine | 1 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 27" |
| Face frame bottom trimPine | 1 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 27" |
| Drawer cleatsPine | 2 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 20" |
| TopHardwood plywood | 1 | 3/4" × 20 3/4" × 30" |
| Back1/4" plywood | 1 | 1/4" × 30" × 21 1/2" |
| Drawer front/backPineCut to fit your actual opening and slides. | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 24 1/2" |
| Drawer sidesPine | 2 | 3/4" × 3 1/2" × 16" |
| Drawer facePine | 1 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 26 3/4" |
Buy 9 boards at 8 ft.
1 board
2 boards
1 board
1 board
1 board
2 boards
1 board
Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →
Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward on the insides of the sides for attaching the top later. Attach the shelves to the sides — the middle shelf can be fixed or left floating on shelf pins.
For a cleaner edge, consider trimming 1/4" off the front edge of each shelf and applying edge banding to it.
Build the face frame with 3/4" pocket holes, 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, and glue. Attach it to the front of the cabinet with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Bring the sides in for the drawer slides by attaching 1x2 cleats to the insides with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.
Attach the top through the pocket holes drilled earlier, with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Add decorative moulding around the sides for detail. Attach the bun feet to the base.
Measure the opening in the cabinet for the drawer. Check your drawer slides' clearance requirement (typically 1/2" per side, 1" total) and build the drawer box to fit — sides cut to the length of the slides, front and back cut to the desired width minus 1-1/2".
Install the drawer box on its slides inside the cabinet. Place the drawer face over the box with an even gap on the sides and top, nail and glue in place, then add a few 1-1/4" screws from the inside for a secure hold.
It may be easier to attach the handle to the drawer face before installing the drawer in the cabinet.
Attach the back panel, sand every surface, and finish.
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