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This is a statement console — six feet of low cabinet with three bays: deep drawers on the outsides and doors in the middle, all wearing planked "printer's cabinet" faces made of stacked 1x boards. It's a real casework project, and honest about it: face frames front and back, a plywood box, drawers on euro slides, and a lot of repetitive face-board work.
The assembly order the source insists on is worth following. Build the door and drawer faces while the face frame is still loose and flat on the bench — lining up eleven narrow boards and keeping them square is far easier against a frame you can move than against an assembled cabinet. And as always with drawers, build the boxes to your actual finished openings and slides, not to the drawing; the given numbers assume perfect stock and 1/2"-per-side slides.
The plywood gets ripped into 15-3/4" strips (the plan calls them "1x16s"). Grab the extra sheet if you want interior shelves — deciding after the box is built means a second trip and a second setup.
| Item | Qty |
|---|---|
| 3/4" plywoodMain box, ripped into 15-3/4" strips. Add a second sheet if you want shelves. | 1 sheet |
| 2x2, 8 ftFace frames and box corners. | 8 each |
| 1x3, 8 ftDoor/drawer face planks. | 6 each |
| 1x2, 8 ftDoor/drawer face planks. | 6 each |
| 1x6, 10 ftDrawer boxes. | 2 each |
| 16" euro drawer slides | 3 pair |
| Inset hinges | 3 set |
| Cup-style handles | 24 each |
| Pocket hole screws, 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" | 1 box |
| Wood glue | 12 oz |
| Finish | 1 kit |
Overall cost: $$$$. Lumber prices vary by region, species, and season, so we give a band rather than a figure we would only be pretending to know.
| Part | Qty | T × W × L |
|---|---|---|
| Face frame long rails2x2 | 2 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 72" |
| Face frame stiles2x2 | 8 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 34 1/2" |
| Face frame dividers2x2Back face frame omits the middle drawer dividers. | 9 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 22" |
| Face planks (wide)1x3 | 24 | 3/4" × 2 1/2" × 21 3/4" |
| Face planks (narrow)1x2 | 18 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 21 3/4" |
| Face plank caps1x2 | 6 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 22 1/2" |
| Box corners2x2 | 4 | 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Box top/bottom3/4" plywood | 2 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 69" |
| Box dividers3/4" plywood | 4 | 3/4" × 15 3/4" × 31" |
| Drawer-slide supports1x2 | 4 | 3/4" × 1 1/2" × 15 3/4" |
| Drawer sides1x6Cut to fit your openings and slides. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 19 1/2" |
| Drawer front/back1x6Cut to fit. | 6 | 3/4" × 5 1/2" × 17" |
Buy 28 boards at 8 ft.
8 boards
Have all the plywood ripped into 15-3/4" wide strips (the plan calls these "1x16s"). If you want interior shelves, get the extra sheet now and rip it too — deciding later means another setup.
Build the front and back face frames from 2x2. Note the back frame omits the middle drawer dividers. Build them flat and square.
Build the planked door and drawer faces now, while the frame is loose — use the frame to align them. Getting eleven narrow boards square on an assembled cabinet is a fight; on a flat, movable frame it's easy.
Connect the two face frames with the top and bottom, using glue and screws, and check for square. Add the sides, checking square again. Then add the dividers, keeping them flush to the inside of each compartment.
Add the drawer-slide supports to the outer compartments only (the middle bay has doors, not drawers). Then build three drawers to suit your finished openings and slides — the given cuts assume perfect stock and 1/2"-per-side slides.
Install the drawers inset 3/4" at the front to leave room for the faces. Attach the drawer faces with an even 1/8" gap all around, hang the doors on the inset hinges, and add the top. Add all the cup handles, then finish.
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Assumes 8 ft stock, a 1/8" saw kerf, and buying each part at its own width. Change the board size or kerf on the full board plan →